Project to promote wines outside the West Coast

Does American wine exist outside of California, Oregon and Washington, the accepted triad of states that make up what’s known as “wine country?”

Dave McIntyre would like to think so. Haven’t heard of him? Well, honestly, I hadn’t either until Thursday when I was directed to Wine Line, an Internet column that McIntyre has used as a reservoir for his thoughts on wine since 1999. A wine columnist for The Washington Post, he has made an enormous contribution to the understanding and appreciation of wine. Don’t believe me? Just check the string of stories that are stored under his Archives link.

But this story doesn’t so much focus on McIntyre as the plan that he and Fort Worth Star-Telegram wine columnist Jeff Siegel are cooking up to bring the rest of America and its wine production out of the cellar, so to speak. Gathering commitments to contributions from wine bloggers and writers all over the country, they have created a Web site called DrinkLocalWine.com (you can look, but there’s nothing but a title there yet) that will serve as the posting point for all these stories on the wines and wineries in most of the country’s 47 other states. The project will begin in earnest Oct. 6 and over the next couple weeks should pack the site with links to the various columnists and bloggers and their posts on several regional wines or wineries.

Asked in an e-mail what led them to plan this, McIntyre wrote back that “we were thinking that ‘American wine’ to most people means California, Oregon and Washington, and that local wines are still regarded as novelties, something to be enjoyed at a festival or on a weekend outing to a winery. We're making the argument that with wine produced in all 50 states and the growth the last few years being outside California, that it's time to look again at local wines.”

They’ll do that with writers posting stories to their individual blogs either before Oct. 6 or during that week, with wine columnists from several metros (Washington Post on Oct. 8), DC Examiner and Atlanta Journal-Constitution on Oct. 9, and Siegel on Oct. 15) mentioning this project and linking to the DrinkLocalWine.com site.

The site will contain links not only to each of the posts and newspaper articles, but also to regional wine-related information like state wine boards and trade groups, and RSS feeds for regional wine blogs and Web sites. Among the states and regions to be included: Georgia, Virginia, Texas, Missouri, New York, Maryland, New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado, Illinois, Wisconsin, Ontario, British Columbia, Michigan, Kentucky and Ohio. Now that I’ve committed, you can add Pennsylvania to the list, which in McIntyre’s words will provide the kind of extensive coverage to help wine drinkers “overlook the hype and overkill that surrounds the wine business in the United States. Wine is made in all 50 U.S. states, and it’s about time wine drinkers knew that.

“The number of wineries in the United States has more than doubled in the last six years," he added, "with most of that growth coming outside California, in states like Colorado, Virginia and North Carolina. With quality improving as well, local wine is no longer a novelty.”

Adds Siegel, also an author of the blog The Wine Curmudgeon, in the news release: “If you’re in Burgundy, you don’t drink wine from Bordeaux. But Americans think that if it doesn’t come from California, it must be crap. And that is just plain wrong.”

Sugarloaf winemaker: 'Wine was the perfect fit'

There was a time when Carl DiManno had his hands in an industry that powers engines and puts our world in motion.

In his third career now, the 41-year-old winemaker has moved to an industry that powers the imagination and sets our palate in motion. He’s left behind Houston, left behind working for two companies that produce fuel for the car to spend his days mixing the blends that make up Sugarloaf Mountain Winery’s excellent line of wines.

“It’s my third career,” he said late last week after being asked how he transported himself into this current occupation. “I left Chevron in 2001 to go to UC Davis and learn wine. Chevron was . . . my second career. I made gasoline for Shell, went and got an MBA. Decided I didn’t want to be an engineer, then went ahead and started writing business plans and strategies and found that utterly detestable. So I was looking for something to do, something else where I could get my hands dirty and actually make something at the end of the day, and wine was the perfect fit.”

Going to school on the West Coast placed him in a couple of Napa vineyards, so he knows the pluses and minuses of working that coast. Minuses? Oh, just that it’s not quite the same challenge.

“Sugarloaf works with some fruit from out of state,” said DiManno, who began there in January 2004 and produced his first vintage two years later. “Some of the fruit I’ve worked with actually . . . I’ve thought, some of my peers in California would have been thrilled with the quality of this fruit. The real change is in the vineyard. It’s easy to grow good fruit in California. It’s really hard to grow good fruit on the East Coast, and when I compare notes with people out there, they ask, ‘Why are you bothering? You’re killing yourself. You’ve got the bees that we don’t have and the bugs we don’t have and rain in the summer.’”

What he finds particularly gratifying “at the end of the day when the wine goes in the bottle you’ve got a product that you’ve made sitting in your hand s. There’s a lot of pride and a lot of pleasure that goes into that, and accolades aside, really the highest compliment I can get is ‘Woahhh, this really doesn’t suck for a Maryland wine.’” He laughed on the other end of the phone. “That’s high praise. [You get] somebody dragged into a Maryland winery and they find it to be on par with a lot of things that are coming out of a lot of wine-growing regions. That’s a high point, and I say it like that because I’ve heard it put like that on a lot of occasions.”

In some ways you can call the Sugarloaf line offbeat, both with some of the names (Circe and Comus are Bordeaux blends) and the fact that a light-bodied red called Stomp is the closest thing they have to an off-dry selection. That contrasts greatly with many of Sugarloaf’s Maryland and Pennsylvania breathren, where sweet and fruit wines populate the list. “You go to the wine festivals and you see what sells and you know why people make some of the wines they do,” he said. “Because they pay the bills.”

So the nine awards secured last week in the Maryland Governor’s Cup competition is particularly rich in irony. Happy, yes, although DiManno admitted earlier in the interview that these competitions can be exasperating. Trot the same wine before a different judging panel and it can be kicked around like a soccer ball, he said, drawing much lower scores. DiManno was asked if he’s been on that side of the table.

“Maryland does something called Maryland Wine Masters, which is actually winemakers who sit around before the Wine in the Woods event, and I sat in on that this year,” he said, “and we sampled wines. When we walked out of there we were pretty happy with the results as judges. We think we got good wines, but we also knew that there were two different sets of judges and one set would give the wine an 8 and the other set would give the wine a 6. Well, the problem is, the people giving the 6 may feel that’s a good, solid 6 and you should be happy with it, but when they tally the numbers it was the ones getting the high scores from the generous judges that went on to the final round. So that’s been my only experience with that side of it.”

The event grapevine: Sept. 19-21

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Featured event

25th annual Maryland Wine Festival
Carroll County Farm Museum, Westminster
Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday, noon to 6 p.m.


There’s a reason why the schedule across the region takes a break. That’s to allow the spotlight to focus on the 25th annual Maryland Wine Festival, which will draw 23 wineries and a number of other vendors. Entertainment and wine education seminars also are listed on the schedule.

To mark this anniversary, the event has added a trivia road rally and a premier pass for $45. This will entitle the holder to everything the regular $20 adult ticket provides in addition to entry to what they are calling the premier tent. There, you can sample the wineries’ premium wines, meet some of Maryland’s newest wineries who are not at the main festival and sample their wines, enjoy samples of foods from area restaurants, and receive a special anniversary gift. Gourmet food prepared by local restaurants also will be available.

Kevin Atticks, executive director of the Maryland Wineries Association, said it’s just a good time to create the pass, with 34 wineries now open across the state and that total increasing by several every year.

“[It will] provide an opportunity for the most committed Maryland wine lovers to taste some of the industry's low-production, super-premium and not-yet-available wines that wouldn't normally be poured on the main festival grounds,” he wrote in an e-mail. “The PREMIER tent will offer samples of local fare to pair with the wines, as well as a refuge from the crowds. We decided to offer this option this year to celebrate the fact that the festival is now 25 years old — and has grown to become one of the largest of its kind on the East Coast.”

Atticks said the festival “continues to be the premier festival in Maryland; it's the show at which most wineries debut to the public. We expect it to grow over the years as we add new features and wineries. Next year, we expect over 30 wineries to be in attendance.”

And here’s what’s going on elsewhere across the region, assuming you can tear yourself away from watching my Temple Owls heading north to take on big bad Penn State:


PENNSYLVANIA WINERIES

Boyd’s Cardinal Hollow Winery Crop, North Wales: Wine tasting at Willow Creek Orchards, Saturday, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., http://www.cardinalhollowwinery.com/

Blue Mountain Vineyards, New Tripoli: Fall Foliage Tasting ($$), Sunday, 2 to 5 p.m., http://www.bluemountainwine.com

Chaddsford Winery, Chaddsford: Reserve tastings ($$), Saturday, sittings at 1, 2:30 and 4 p.m., http://www.chaddsford.com

Clover Mill Farm Vineyards & Winery, Chester Springs: Open again, Sunday, 1 to 5 p.m., http://www.clovermillfarm.com/

Crossing Vineyards & Winery, Washington Crossing: Wine Tasting for Singles ($$), Friday, 7 p.m.; Wine Tasting for Dummies ($$), Sunday, 2 p.m.; third class in Wine 101 series ($$), Monday, 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., Wines of the World; The ABCs of Wine Tasting ($$), taught by wire writer Collin Flatt, Wednesday, Sept. 24, 7:30 to 8:30 p.m., http://www.crossingvineyards.com

Hauser Estate Winery, Biglerville: Official grand opening, through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday, noon to 5 p.m. Sunday, http://www.hauserestate.com/

Moon Dancer Vineyards & Winery, Wrightsville: Music Friday (6 to 9 p.m.), Saturday (2 to 5 p.m.) and Sunday, 2 to 5 p.m., http://www.moondancerwinery.com

Wycombe Vineyards, Furlong: Harvest Traminette grapes, Saturday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., with cookout to follow harvest; brings shears if you have them, RSVP on Web site or by calling 215.598.WINE, http://www.vynecrest.com/


MARYLAND WINERIES

MARYLAND winery events can be found at this link, VIRGINIA events at this link and New York events at this link

FESTIVALS

25th annual Maryland Wine Festival ($$), Westminster, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday and noon to 6 p.m. Sunday, information at this link

($$) – Admission charge

Hauser Estate opening continues through Sunday

Just a reminder that the grand opening at Hauser Estate Winery on Cashtown Road in Biglerville, Pa., will continue through Sunday. While there aren't any additional photos to share with you, I can paste the rest of the schedule off their site:

Sep 19 - FRIDAY : Open until 7 p.m.* Melinda Hutton Photography- Will Showcase Local Floral, Fruit and Landscape Photos from 4:00- 6:00 pm* Win a Framed Photo! Drawing is at 6 pm* Food Available for Purchase by Crossroads Cafe'* HALLOWEEN EARLY! Dress in 1980's Attire and Receive 10% Off Your Wine!

Sep 20 - SATURDAY : Open until 9 pm* Several Adams County Artists Will Showcase and Demonstrate Their Talent and Creativity for All to See* Tours of The Underground Production Area at 1:00 and 4:00 pm* Food Available for Purchase by Seasons Bakery & Cafe'* COLGAN- HIRSH AITKEN WILL PERFORM FROM 6:00- 9:00 PM- FREE LIVE MUSIC!!

Sep 21 - SUNDAY : Open Until 5 pm* Food Available for Purchase by Seasons Bakery & Cafe'* Free Live Music!

Wine awards give and just as often take

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Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard won its share of awards in the Maryland Governor’s Cup competition, so winemaker Carl DiManno certainly had reasons to celebrate. Among the recognition handed out late last week was a “Best of Class” for its 2007 Pinot Grigio, four gold medals, two silvers and two bronze. Not a bad collection of trinkets at all for the several-year-old winery that’s tucked away in the northwest corner of Maryland’s Montgomery County.

Still, anyone who does something that can get entered and judged knows the elation and disappointment that the results can bring. As someone who’s been involved in newspaper for more than 30 years and entered a number of contests – and made the decision of who and what to enter for many of my co-workers -- there’s a realization that often what one thinks will win doesn’t, and what seems like a stretch to win is bestowed first prize.

In many ways it matches the gratification and frustration of those who enter wine competition, DiManno said. Asked how much stock a winery put in the awards it wins, he echoed what are often my sentiments after receiving the results: HUH!!!!

“Having not entered anything or submitted to Parker or Wine Spectator, I can’t speak from that standpoint,” he said. “But as far as contests or medals go, it is a complete scattershot. I swear that the wine that took the ‘Best of Class’ had been sampled on a Thursday instead of Wednesday, it would have been a bronze medal. There is no consistency whatsoever.

“The [20]05 Cabernet Franc from Sugarloaf went up to the East Coast International Wine Competition up in the Finger Lakes, which pulls in wines from California, New Zealand [etc.], and took a double gold. We sent it down to Virginia for the East Coast Vinifera Growers wine tasting and it took a bronze. There’s absolutely no consistency. . . .”

That doesn’t mean that he doesn’t like hearing Sugarloaf Mountain’s name called. As he said, “It’s nice to get them. The first couple medals we [won we] thought, ‘Woahhh, OK, we’re on the right track,’ and then . . . it’s funny. To enter the same wine in a different contest and see there’s absolutely no consistency whatsoever.

“With wine, there’s no definition of quality obviously, there’s no definition of good wine. It’s very subjective. It’s just, I’m more impressed when I hear things like the overall quality of Maryland is coming up,” he said. “I’d like to think that we and a few others have raised the bar, and now everyone is getting on their game. That’s encouraging.”

Ravenswood prez to speak at Vintners' dinner

My thanks to Karen Cline -- who kicks out news you can use for the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail -- for the kind words (and a gentle kick in the butt) earlier this evening. Sometimes it's just nice to hear from folks who read this thing. Still in its early stages, getting the word out about its existence remains one of my more vexing problems. But, nothing that is insurmountable.

Anyway, Cline reports that Ravenswood Winery (Sonoma, Callif.) winemaker and president Joel Peterson has accepted an invitiation to speak at the trail's Vintners' Dinner Celebration at Longwood Gardens near Kennett Square, Pa. The evening event (6:30 to midnight) will be held Saturday, Nov. 8, in the East Conservatory and Ballroom. In addition to a wine reception and a dinner that will pair up with many of the wines from wineries on the trail, there will be dancing to the Brass Ensemble of the Kennet Symphony of Chester County and a silent auction that will raise money for The Little Rock Foundation.

Most of the proprietors of the seven wineries that make up the trail (the seventh, Black Walnut, is scheduled to open later this fall or after the holidays) will be attending. The cost is $135 per person. You can register online at the trail's Web site or call 866.390.4367.

Black Ankle wins Maryland's Best of Show

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Black Ankle Winery is building up quite a resume. Now all it has to do is open its doors.

The winery in Mt. Airy, Md., that already has received a ton of press earned some more yesterday when it received the Governor’s Cup Award for “Best in Show.” This 19th annual competition was sponsored by the Maryland Wineries Association What drew top price for Black Ankle was its 2006 Crumbling Rock, a Bordeaux blend that includes Cab Franc, Cab Sauvignon and Merlot as the major players along with a touch of Petit Verdot. According to the specs, the wines “spent 16 months in barrel, where they were topped and stirred weekly for 6 months, then topped bi-weekly until they were blended, fined, and lightly-filtered in preparation for bottling. The 2006 Crumbling Rock was bottled on April 2nd, 2008.”

It’s one of 10 wines that Ed Boyce and Sarah O’Herron are producing, and it’s a unique list; there are no sweet wines among the group. Six are white, including an Albarino that’s usually seen coming out of Spain rather than the Maryland Piedmont.

Association president Kevin Atticks wrote in an e-mail that there’s plenty of significance to a “rookie winery” taking the top price.

“The fact that a new winery — with wine from its very first vintage — has won the Governor's Cup is an incredible nod to the winegrowing prowess of our growing industry,” he wrote. “With Black Ankle Vineyards' win in the Governor's Cup, and also in the Winemasters Choice Awards, they have shown that locally-grown Maryland wine is of the highest quality and that sound viticulture and winemaking practices rule.”

Those who have watched the pair pour significant money and time into this new winery can’t be too surprised at the early success. They purchased a 146-acre farm in Frederick County in 2002 and began planting in 2003. What has delayed the opening of their tasting room, originally scheduled for July, has been this desire to erect a building that “uses as many materials from our farm as possible, including wood, straw, soil, rain and sun,” according to their site. Those who want to try their wines can head down to the 25th annual Maryland Wine Festival this weekend at the Carroll County Farm Museum in Westminster. In fact, most of Maryland’s 34 wineries are expected to be pouring samples. And, if you can’t make that to try Black Ankle’s wines, that tasting room will probably open the following weekend, although nothing official has been announced.

"Thanks for the congrats on the Crumbling Rock - we are really proud of it," Boyce wrote in an e-mail. "We think our reds will be the backbone of our reputation, so the fact that it is garnering some acclaim is a good thing."

In addition to Black Ankle's best of the best, six other “Best of Class” awards were given out, including two each to Elk Run Vineyards and Boordy Vineyards. “In all, the awards included 25 gold medals, 46 silver medals, and 47 bronze medals.