Sunday, September 28, 2008

Instructor offers his take on ABCs of wine


Beyond the harvest ongoing at wineries across the region are seminars and workshops that are designed to give people a clue about what’s coming off the vines and into the bottle. Crossing Vineyards & Winery is one of a couple of wineries more proactive about that aspect of the business, and it enhanced its staff recently by hiring wire writer and fellow Temple grad Collin Flatt to teach a few of the courses it offers.

Reached earlier this week en route to his first class, The ABCs of Wine Tasting, Flatt said that he learned his basics at the
Wine School of Philadelphia under the extraordinary tutelage of Keith Wallace and Brian Freedman. "They are two of the best wine minds in the city," he said, noting that his education there in addition to time he spent living in Italy has prepared him well for this teaching gig. A longtime wine collector, there’s one thing he brought along with him that night besides his classroom materials: lots of opinions on how to teach the subject.

“You get two kinds of people who walk into a wine class,” he told me, the sound of traffic in the background, “people that don’t know absolutely anything and are interested, and people who think they already know everything. So basically the thing you have you start off with is dispelling a few myths.”

He went on to say that “the old-school method of teaching wine is read books, read books, read books. Know your name dropping and stuff . . . which is not the way to do it. The way to do it is to start off with sensory teaching, which is how I start all of my people off. I do something called the jellybean test, and what that basically is, you’re teaching them that your nose actually does all your tasting for you. Basically it’s the whole pinch your nose, chew a jellybean, you can’t taste anything. And when you let go of your nose again, well all of a sudden now you realize your nose is teaching you everything. So basically, people grasp that they have to trust their nose and basically trust themselves.

“I hate when people come in and say, Oh, this is supposed to taste like A, B, and C. Like I absolutely hate when wineries, etc., list that ‘Oh, you’re going to taste chocolate and jammy fruit and all this other crap,’ because then people start to try to push themselves to find these things in the wine that sometimes aren’t even there because everyone smells different things, everyone feels different things. You know, people have different levels of what I call a flavor Rolodex. And basically, the reason people can smell different things is . . . you’ll notice that your coffee drinkers will find a lot more chocolate in their wines. You’ll notice that people who eat a lot of fresh fruit are going to find more pear in their wine, that kind of stuff. You train your taste buds to, before you ever step foot in any type of wine teaching, you train your taste buds to find things that you already know you like.

“Basically, the reason I did really well with wines starting out is that I eat absolutely anything. There’s not one thing I will not touch. I eat everything. That’s kind of why I got into food, too, and the more you taste and the more you think about food when you’re eating it, etcetera, etcetera, you add cards to your flavor Rolodex. And those people who really pay attention to what they eat do very well with wine, because you remember things, and your nose is attached to your memory more than anything else. And if you’ve eaten certain things, you’ll be able to pick those things out. I find that the people who eat the most food do the best in my class. So that’s where I like to go first, and I’m also big on Pepsi Challenge. I like to put wine against wines and I don’t mean same kinds. If you have someone just sitting there looking at a glass of white and they’re tasting it, they might have a hard time finding things. But if you put a naked Chard up against an oak Chard, or if you put a chard against a
Viognier or a Riesling, you’ll find that people do much better finding flavors in there, because they’re able to compare A to B.

“No one sits there and drinks two wines at once, except for people like me, and [other] wine drinkers who will pop open 15 wines over the course of a weekend, you know, when you’re just drinking with friends. But when you Pepsi Challenge them, you really are able to dig stuff out.” And it will help them differentiate even the variations of a grape. Take
Chardonnay, for instance. “People are like, ‘Oh, I hate Chardonnay.’ Well, what you think you hate about Chardonnay might be the oaky, butteriness of it,” he said. “Well, that’s because you don’t like New World Chardonnay. So let’s put this New World Chard against an Old World Chard and see if you don’t find something completely different. You look at Old World Chard or naked steel Chard or neutral oak, you’ll find that the expression of chard is very tangy and actually has a lot of acid in it. A lot brighter fruit and not such muted butterscotch vanilla notes. So you really have to train people not to hate what they already think they hate.

“I’m big on Pepsi Challenge, I’m big on promoting a Flavor Rolodex, which is eat food, eat a lot of it, remember what you’re eating, think about what you’re eating. Think about the vegetables you’re eating, the fruit that you’re eating. And don’t force something that’s not there. That’s a big thing. [Someone will say], ‘Oh, I read that this wine is supposed to have a lot black currants in it.’ It’s like, how many black currants do you eat at home? Do you really know what a
black currant tastes like? You probably don’t.”

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Ahead for Sugarloaf: Grape Stomp, Winefest

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Wanted to pass along this note from the folks at Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard in the northwest corner of Maryland's Montgomery County.


Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard’s 2nd Annual Grape Stomp Saturday and Sunday, October 18 and 19, Noon - 5 pm each day Come out and join the fall fun at our 2nd Annual Grape Stomp! We’ll have great music, food, vineyard and winery tours featuring our new tasting room and garden patio. You can enjoy tastings of our award-winning wines, including our new STOMP wine made especially for the celebration. To top off the fun, we’ll have a contest of grape stomping skill! Admission for those 21 and older is $10 and includes a wine glass and five tastings of select wines. Young adults and children under 21 are admitted free. Jump in with both feet!
On Sunday of the Stomp, SMV will host the presentation of the 2008 Royce Hansen Award by the Montgomery Countryside Alliance. The award recognizes the outstanding commitment toward protection of Montgomery County’s Agricultural Reserve. MCA is pleased to name the award after its first recipient and one of the architects of the Agricultural Reserve. MCA is committed to the preservation of agricultural lands, rural open space, and the rural wedge. It is SMV’s commitment to support the efforts which have resulted in our pastoral countryside.
We are looking for volunteers to work the STOMP. Shifts are 11:00 AM until 2:00 PM and 2:00 PM until 5:00 PM each day. All volunteers receive free admission and a complimentary bottle of wine. If you are interested in joining the SMV STOMP team, contact Kathy ODonoghue at
ksodonoghue@aol.com.

Volunteer for the Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard Festival Team!Come join us for festival season! We are forming the team for the upcoming Riverside Winefest at Sotterley on October 4 and 5, 2008. The festival is held on the grounds of historic Sotterley Plantation on the Patuxent River in St. Mary's County, MD and serves as a fundraiser for the plantation. Volunteer shifts would be Noon-3pm and 3pm-6pm each day. Please see additional information in our Festival Schedule information below. All festival volunteers receive free admission to the festival and a complimentary bottle of SMV wine. If you are interested in joining the SMV Riverside at Sotterley Festival Team, contact Kathy ODonoghue at
ksodonoghue@aol.com.

Friday, September 26, 2008

NY outlines October promotions


Having written about this New York Wine & Grape Foundation initiatives a couple weeks back, here are some more details on what the state body has planned for October.
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The fall has arrived, and with it the annual grape harvest and crush in New York’s wine country. Tons of ripe grapes of many varieties and colors are picked and delivered to wineries in all regions—Long Island, the Hudson Valley, Finger Lakes, Niagara Escarpment, Lake Erie, and Thousand Islands. There’s no better time to celebrate New York’s bounty of fine wine than October.

Throughout the month, more than 115 restaurants and 150 wine stores throughout New York State will be celebrating New York Wine Month by offering their customers hundreds of fine New York wines from over 30 wineries.

“October is the perfect month for celebrating New York wines,” said Jim Trezise, President of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation which is orchestrating the month-long promotion. “The 2007 vintage was the best in many years, and most of the wines are now available. It’s also prime time to visit wine country, combining the excitement of the harvest and crush with the beautiful fall colors.”

The promotion extends throughout the state except in New York City, where a separate “New York Wines & Dines” promotion is taking place. The major markets include Long Island, the Hudson Valley and greater Albany area, Syracuse and Utica, Rochester, Buffalo, North Country and the southern tier (Ithaca, Corning, Elmira).

“We are very grateful to our wholesaler partners, and to the hundreds of restaurants and fine wine stores working with us,” said Trezise. “There is a national ‘locavore’ trend toward buying local products, and the enthusiasm we have seen indicates that it’s popular right here in New York. In the case of wine, some call it ‘locapour’.”

For the October promotion, an entirely new web site (www.newyorkwinemonth.com) was developed to guide consumers to nearby restaurants and wine stores wherever they live, as well as provide information about participating wineries. The newyorkwinemonth.com web site lists all of the participating wineries, restaurants and stores. The site is searchable by region to make it convenient for consumers.

The Foundation is also supporting the promotion with radio and print advertising in every market, a customized wine list for restaurants, point of sale materials, and a public relations campaign.

The radio campaign describes the promotion and directs listeners to the web site. The companion print campaign, targeted mostly at lifestyle publications, actually lists the participating stores and restaurants, while also highlighting the web site.

A unique feature of the campaign is customized wine lists for the participating restaurants made possible by modern technology and a pURL—a personal URL. Basically, a standard template exists for an attractive wine list, including an introduction and a back-cover description of the New York wine industry. When the restaurant has selected the wines it will feature, it enters those (and their descriptions) into the pURL for a customized wine list that is then printed and shipped to the restaurant.

“New York Wine—Class by the Glass” point of sale materials have been created for wine stores and restaurants, including a large sign to hang over the New York wine section, case cards, and menu cards. These materials, along with the rest of the campaign, have been developed by Mason Selkowitz Marketing of Penfield.

The Foundation has also developed an additional, special series of point of sale materials, “New York’s Great Grapes”, that is on its main web site (www.newyorkwines.org) ready to be downloaded and printed by wholesalers, retailers and restaurants. The series includes the 18 most common varietal wines with photographs of the grapes, the wine in the glass, and some recommended foods to accompany it. Each of the items—such as shelf talkers, table tents, and case cards—also includes space for including information about individual wineries and wines being featured by restaurants and stores. The series was designed by artist Book Marshall, with photography by Randall Tagg.

The public relations campaign includes radio and television interviews in various markets to promote New York Wine Month, and to encourage consumers to patronize the businesses supporting local products.

"When we buy New York, we build New York,” said Trezise. “The wineries, restaurants and wine shops are all New York businesses which provide New York jobs and pay New York taxes. It just makes sense that we all work together.”

The event grapevine: Sept. 26-28


Featured event

6th annual Brandywine Valley Wine Trail Harvest Fest
Weekends of Sept. 27-28 and Oct. 4-5


The idea of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail’s Harvest Fest hasn’t changed since its inception. As Lee Miller, the co-owner of Chaddsford Winery, wrote in an e-mail, the primary goal of the annual festival is to celebrate fall and introduce the 2008 vintages. “The idea of Harvest Fest is that it's pretty much the same every year,” she wrote, “but a chance for people to come out and see the vineyards, how the harvest is going, what's new at each winery, what new releases they have, etc. And we all offer a bunch of activities that will be a little different every year.”

What makes this year’s different, however, is that for the first time it’s being spread over two weekends, this one and next. Said Miller, “We felt that this would give them more opportunity to visit and enjoy the wineries, instead of rushing to get to them all in one day or one weekend.”

Harvest Fest Passports required to visit any of the six participating wineries are $25 and can be purchased at any one of them when you stop in,
online, or by calling 610.444-3842 or 866-390.4367. These entitle the holder to one tasting at each winery. If you just can’t make it to all six during these two weekends, the Passport can be used through Dec. 30.

But the real treat is getting to any of these wineries during the next two weeks. The places are buzzing with visitors grouped around the tasting bar, gathering for a tour or listening to some basic information about the wines they are sampling and the wineries that make them. And all the wineries we visited had something out to munch on.

On what’s a busy fall weekend for winery and wine trail events, here’s what’s on the schedule:

PENNSYLVANIA WINERIES

Boyd’s Cardinal Hollow Winery Crop, North Wales: Live music, Saturday, 5 to 8 p.m.,
http://www.cardinalhollowwinery.com/

Blue Mountain Vineyards, New Tripoli: 13th annual Picking Party and Grape Stomp ($$), Saturday and Sunday. 9 a.m. through the entire day; Fall Foliage Tasting ($$), Sunday, 2 to 5 p.m.,
http://www.bluemountainwine.com

Chaddsford Winery, Chaddsford: Harvest Festival ($$), Saturday and Sunday, noon to 6 p.m.; Reserve tastings ($$), Saturday, sittings at 1, 2:30 and 4 p.m., http://www.chaddsford.com

Clover Mill Farm Vineyards & Winery, Chester Springs: Open again, Sunday, 1 to 5 p.m., http://www.clovermillfarm.com/

Crossing Vineyards & Winery, Washington Crossing: Fourth class in Wine 101 series ($$), Monday, 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., white wine,
http://www.crossingvineyards.com

Galen Glen Vineyard & Winery, Andreas: Octoberfest Tours of the Vineyard & Cellars, Sunday, tractor and wagon tours depart at 1, 2, 3 & 4pm.,
http://www.galenglen.com

Kreutz Creek Vineyards, West Grove: Harvest Festival ($$), Saturday and Sunday, music, 2 to 5 p.m. both days and Saturday night concert ($$), 6 to 9 p.m.,
http://www.kreutzcreekvineyards.com

Moon Dancer Vineyards & Winery, Wrightsville: Music Friday (6 to 9 p.m.), Saturday (2 to 5 p.m.) and Sunday, 2 to 5 p.m.; concert ($$), Saturday, 7 to 10 p.m.,
George Wesley, http://www.moondancerwinery.com

Paradocx Vineyard, Landenberg: Harvest Festival ($$), Saturday and Sunday, noon to 5 p.m., Saturday night concert, 5 to 9 p.m., Blue Bayou, http://www.paradocx.com

Penns Woods Winery, Eddystone: Harvest Festival ($$), noon to 5 p.m., music both days,
http://www.pennswoodswinery.com

Twin Brook Winery, The Gap: Harvest Festival ($$), Saturday and Sunday; Harvest Festival concert ($$), Saturday, 6:30 to 9:30 p.m., Big Package, Weather permitting this concert will be held outdoors. If there is inclement weather the concert will be held in the Greenhouse. To ensure your spot please secure your tickets in advance since there is LIMITED ADMISSION for the Greenhouse,
http://www.twinbrookwinery.com

Va La Vineyards, Avondale: Harvest Festival ($$), Saturday and Sunday, noon to 6 pm.,
http://www.valavineyards.com

MARYLAND WINERIES

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, Dickerson: Live music by Danny Grizzle, Saturday, 2 to 5 p.m.,
http://www.smvwinery.com/index.htm


Other MARYLAND winery events can be found at this link, VIRGINIA events at this link and New York events at this link


FESTIVALS

33rd annual Virginia Wine Festival ($$), Prince William County (Va.) Fairgrounds, Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.,
information at this link

Uncorked Rockville (Md.) ($$), Saturday, noon to 6 p.m.,
information at this link

$$ – Admission charge

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Vendemmia Festival set for Sunday


This weekend probably ranks among the calendar year’s five busiest when you look at events involving wine across the region.

One of those will take place Sunday in South Philly, a few blocks up from where the Phillies will be playing their final game of the season. It’s the 12th annual
Vendemmia Festival at Vendemmia Square, located between Pattison Avenue and Hartranft Street at South Broad and South 20th streets, just north of FDR Park. Billed as a fall festival of wine and food, the event will begin at 2 in the afternoon and continue until 6. The entry fee is $40.

For that investment, you are given a wine glass and the freedom to not only taste as many wines as you want but the freedom to sample a number of foods that have been donated by restaurants across the city. The attraction of this event is the access to so many homemade wines: A spokesperson said yesterday that organizers were expecting between 125 and 150 winemakers to enter their wines in the competition. “A lot of them are local,” she said. “They make it in their basement. All we ask [of them] is to donate some of their wines for consumption at the festival.”

This event is held either the last Sunday of September or the first Sunday in October. Tickets are available only in advance; you can pay by cash, check or money order at 1841 S. Broad St. A table for 10 can be reserved for $400. You can call the Vendemmia Foundation at 215.551.3859 for more information.

This might have been a secret its first couple of years, but no longer. Organizers are expecting around 5,000 people to attend.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Maryland Festival sees glass completely full


The perfect weekend turned into the perfect attendance storm at the Maryland Wine Festival in Westminster, according to the executive director of the Maryland Wineries Association.

Kevin Atticks wrote in an e-mail earlier today that the 25th annual event drew more than 15,000 on Saturday, a record, and that the final number for the weekend was 23,695. And the PREMIER tent, which cost visitors an extra $25 (the festival fee was $20) to enter, lured in more than 600 guests. There, they could partake of gourmet food and premium wines, including some library wines from Catoctin Winery (now Frederick Cellars). Atticks said that “Black Ankle's wines were a hit, and Orchid Cellars' historic-recipe mead was very well-received.”

Twenty-three of Maryland’s 34 wineries participated, and both the new guard and what Atticks called the historic wineries – those such as
Basignani, Boordy, Fiore and
Woodhall that have been around for 20 or more years -- were represented. You would think the new competition from, among others, Sugarloaf Mountain and Black Ankle and the awards they’ve been winning might cause some panic among the more-established wineries. If that’s the case, no one is sharing that fear. After all, they have been holding out their hands to assist these fledgling proprietors.

Talk to the newcomers and they’ll all tell you that they’re indebted to the old guard for their assistance and encouragement as they went through the process of getting set up. No one set up roadblocks; instead they answered questions and shared information, and that seems to be happening across the state line in Pennsylvania, too. Consequently, Atticks said in a phone conversation this afternoon, that group now feels like they can share in some of the quick success that the new wineries have enjoyed.

“All of us came away from this festival very proud of what we were offering,” Atticks said. “I think what you’re seeing with the success of these new wineries . . . is kind of a revived industry pride. The older wineries, historic wineries as they’ve asked me to call them, I think really do feel and I think it’s appropriate, that the success of the newer ones came from the groundwork laid by these old wineries. [They see] that we would not have gotten the state support and the educational opportunities and the funding for these new start-ups and the high-profile marketing for these new starts-ups had there not been for the success and the perseverance of the historic wineries.

“It sure makes my job easier that the new wineries coming out are of high quality; well thought out, winning awards, getting grants, have solid business plans, are trying new things, are cutting edge. It’s hard for anyone to debate that.”

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Black Walnut owners can see the end in sight

From left, Lance and Valerie Castle and Jack and Karen Kuhn

There are four owners – two couples more specifically – wringing the hours out of their weeks with their eyes on mid- to late November as the goal for opening Black Walnut Winery. Once it opens, the Sadsburyville, Pa., winery would become the seventh member of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail.

Lance and Valerie Castle and good friends Jack and Karen Kuhn all are immersed in day jobs that require plenty of hours. “And then oddly enough we all look forward to coming here and working 12 to 15 hours a day,” Lance Castle said during a phone conversation earlier today. “We have a great time and we have a lot of family and friends that comes and help us. Right now I have two crews; one is doing pressing that I’m helping with. Another crew is doing bottling. They’re all friends . . . all smiling and laughing and having a good time, and working here for free. And when they leave, they’ll thank me. It’s the neatest thing about this business so far. So many people go, ‘Thank you for letting us come and bust our butt for 10 hours.’” He laughed.

Hey, what are friend for than to lean on them for a project of this magnitude that began as a home winemaking hobby nine years ago? Castle said that he started making so much that “I told my wife, ‘We either have to cut it back or go to that next level.’ and oddly enough she agreed with me. It took us about 18 months took us to find this building.”

The almost 200-year-old bank barn is a 10,000-square-foot structure in which half of it is wedged underground; that perfectly controls the temperatures downstairs where Castle has his tanks and bottles. Upstairs, once an antique shop, is split up into a number of interesting rooms. Out back are a deck and a patio underneath overlooking a Koi pond. Castle figures to have parking for 40 or 50 cars on a lot that will be accessed off Octorara Road, just off business Route 30 and about 2 miles east of the intersection with Route 10. It’s about 5 miles down the road from Twin Brook Winery
, another member of the Brandywine trail.

Once the winery opens, Castle figures on selling somewhere between a dozen and 15 wines. No vines are growing on the property at present; he buys some from a couple members of the trail and the rest from a grape grower near Oxford, Pa., in southern Chester County. While he’s bottling inside, he’s working on hooking up sewer outside. It’s all been part of a large learning curve that Castle, who works for Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia, said he couldn’t have expected when he began.

“I guess it’s all the different agencies,” he responded to a question about what has most surprised him in the process of becoming a winery. “I recognized you needed to be licensed by the state to have a winery; I recognized the ATF would needed to know about you from a tax perspective. But a 40- or 50- or 60-page submittal with I don’t know how many attachments for the federal government and interview and criminal background checks and you name it to make wine. Same with the state. And then having to be registered with the FDA. And the county and the township, the rules and regs about just being setting up a business, not necessarily a winery, was far more complicated I guess than I thought it was going to be.”

We were finished then and ended our conversation, but a half-hour or so later Castle sent an e-mail with information about his experiences that he felt were as important as the lessons about dealing with government’s red tape.

“I told you about all of the agencies we had to deal with during the process,” he wrote. “However, I missed the answer that I normally tell people, the amazing support that the other wineries provided to us during our start-up has been unbelievable. Normally businesses in the same area do not help each other, but the wineries seem to march to a different drummer. Each of the owners and winemakers can not do enough to help us get the information or contacts that we need to be a success. I do not know how I missed that, but it is really the most amazing thing about this whole process that I have seen.”