That's W, as in whoopee, for pending Md. law

Wanna learn how to hurdle? Just try and open a winery, at least according to what many proprietors in both states have told me. Lots of stipulations to meet, enough red tape to completely wrap a vineyard, plenty of requests to jump over. And there can be as many difficulties even after opening because of a variety of laws that change at the borders of townships and counties.

So it was with a lot of interest that I read a story sent earlier today by Maryland Wineries Association executive director Kevin Atticks detailing a special winery classification that the state legislature is considering. According to the story in the Hagerstown Herald-Mail, this new Class W license would provide more uniformity in the rules that regulate Maryland wineries.

The story, published Saturday, said the new license would "allow the sampling and selling of winery wines at the winery for on- or off-premise consumption, allow the business to hold events and allow the winery to operate seven days a week, among other things."

Home winemaker Patone about to take plunge

If you haven’t heard of Mario Patone and you’re at all into regional wineries, you will soon. Off the conversation with Roger Morris last week I got ahold of Patone, a longtime home winemaker, late last week. With his roots in the Abruzzo region of Italy, Patone followed in the footsteps of a number of family members. Only now he has some grander ideas.

By fall, he hopes to have his winery operating in Chester County, no more than a comfortable walk on a pretty day between the Kreutz Creek and Paradocx wineries that will bookend his operation. So close, I joked with him, that visitors attending that Brandywine Valley Wine Trail’s Barrels on the Brandywine could walk to the three wineries rather than drive. “I’m in the middle of them by a mile each,” he said. “They could walk between them; they’d probably burn off a little wine during the walk.”

At the same time, he’ll look to build a combo boutique winery and house on Route 841 in Lancaster County, capping off these past few years in which he decided to become more serious about what has been a hobby up until now.

“I always wanted to be in an entrepreneurial business, “said Patone, a CPA, “and food and wine are an absolute passion of mine. I’ve been with big firms, traveled all over. At this point [I] turned 40 last year, and we’re just trying to head for something a little more simplistic, a little more back to basics. So we decided to try to take the plunge and try to head that way with the food and the wine.”

For now, Patone will continue to source grapes from wineries such as Paradocz, Penns Woods and Waltz Vineyards in Manheim, Lancaster County, until he can begin pulling them out of his own vineyards. He sees the glass half full in terms of whether this is a good time to open a new business.

“Quite honesty, we’re in some interesting economic times and I’m not sure what the recovery is going to b,e but I think regardless there’s going to be a stronger focus on local economies and local tourism,” he said. “I think people will kind of look a little more inward and enjoy the region where they live." And taste a quality of wine that will continue to improve.

"I belong to the [Brandywine Valley] wine trail and I spend time with all the other winemakers. Everybody is very, very motivated to really improve the quality, to really hit the books, so to speak, and crack down and really trying to study and understand what’s going on and really trying to make the region come alive," he said. "As we both know, California was laughed at when it came on line, Washington was laughed at, and people 10 years ago said, ‘Wine from Pennsylvania, you’re nuts.’ But I think that, I know Penns Woods is doing a real nice job and Va La is doing a nice job . . . and they’re making some wines that are starting to turn people’s heads, and they saying ‘Wow, they’re coming from Pennsylvania.’”

Afternoon spent tasting Manatawny's best

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Saturday afternoon with Mary and Wayne at Manatawny Creek.
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We headed northeast to Boyertown, Pa., on Saturday to see our friends Mary and Wayne, figuring after lunch we'd depart and -- since we wanted to head to Lancaster -- then make a stop at Tamanend Winery off rotues 72 and 741 en route to the Park City Center. Only we never quite got to that winery in time, all because we noticed on the map that Manatawny Creek Winery was only about 5 miles away.

I don't think I had even heard of the winery until a couple of weeks ago, when I found the list of excellence winners from the Pennsylvania Wine Society and it included Manatawny Creek's Meritage, a blend of 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot grapes. Manatawny, a little more than 10 years old, is one of eight members of the Berks County Wine Trail, all of which have something in common besides the fact that they're located on either side of I-78: They don't charge for tastings.

From my experience, that's the exception rather than the rule among wineries in the eastern half of the state. Generally, wineries charge from a couple bucks up to $7 per person to taste around six to eight wines. Some send you home with a glass; some don't. In Maryland, wineries are permitted to serve six, one-ounce samples of wine free of charge. Any other iteration requires a charge.

Anyway, Manatawny goes a step further than most. Not only aren't you charged for the tastings, but you can try everything in the winery's line; that's almost 25 wines that span that wide bridge from dry to sweet to fruit and white to red. Crackers also are out on the 30-some foot Corian bar, along with sharp cheese from Redner's Markets and chocolates from Reppert's that accompany the port. Talk about spoiling our friends, who hadn't been to a winery to taste before. This is all they know. It was an afternoon of fun, amid a crowd of people that kept the family behind the bar hopping our entire time there. We were lucky enough to draw the wit and hospitality (and full attention) of Mary, the mom of winermaker and owner Joanne Levengood. She was part educational and part comedienne and part historian, answering all questions about the wines and anything related to them. We all gave a thumbs up to the Blanc de Blancs, essentially their champagne, the "naked" Chardonnay (thy call it C.O.W. Chardonnay Off Wood), the Chambourcin and port, made with Cabernet Franc grapes. A dry red fan, I couldn't get enough of the Pinor Noir, Cab Franc, Merlot and Meritage. And did you know you have to pay to call your wine Meritage (pronounced like heritage)? It's a registered trademark that requires joining The Meritage Association.

By the time we and our friends had purchased four bottles apiece and headed out the door, more than an hour and a half had passed. By the time we hit Lancaster, it was after 5. No Tamanend this week. Hey, one to try another weekend en route to Philly or to the Lancaster outlets.

Crossing Vineyards dinner draws full house

The menu from the dinner. Just click on it to peruse the particulars.

Crossing Vineyards and Winery in Washington Crossing, Pa., held a Winter Winemakers Dinner last Saturday night. It was a five-course gourmet meal that featured winemaker Tom Carroll Jr. He gave an insider's guide to the 2008 vintage. Dropped proprietor and marketing director Christine Carroll a note yesterday and she responded with the following:

"The dinner was GREAT!!!! A sell-out [in this economy, if you can believe it]. I am attaching a copy of the menu. Maybe the food had something to do with it.

The 'formal' topic for discussion was Insider Tips on Vintage 2008. Tom Jr. talked about the weather conditions throughout the season and at harvest. We compared 08 vintage to other recent vintages. We also discussed the pairings at each course and people voiced their preferences. It was so interesting. By the end of the evening we were shouting over each other to be hear over the 'conviviality.'

The introduction of the cheese course has been a real learning experience and a big hit."

The Event Grapevine: Jan. 23-25

This release involves a class scheduled for the week beyond the Super Bowl, but let me get it posted for anyone wanting to plan ahead:

Can drinking wine, as some studies suggest, lead to a longer, healthier life? What is the definition of “moderate drinking?” Which has lower carbs, wine or light beer? Should the elderly consume alcohol?
Crossing Vineyards and Winery in Washington Crossing, Pa. will offer answers to some often-asked questions related to the use of alcohol when physician and wine enthusiast Dr. David Mino offers a workshop “Wine and Wellness: Eat, Drink and Be Healthy,” on Wednesday, Feb. 4, at 7:30 p.m. at the winery, 1853 Wrightstown Road.
The one-hour course includes a wine-tasting.
Mino, an orthopedic surgeon from Washington Crossing, earned his medical degree from Temple University School of Medicine and his wine expertise – which began more than 30 years ago with a wine appreciation class at Moravian College - through his own studies and travels through Sonoma and Napa Valley, New York’s Finger Lakes, Switzerland, the Northern and Central regions of Italy, and the Champagne, Rhone, Burgundy and Loire regions of France. For the past 20 years, Mino, who holds an M.B.A. and also designs wine cellars, has been lecturing on the sensory evaluation and analysis of wine, proper pairings and the health benefits of wine.
Cost of the workshop is $25. Reservations may be made by calling 215.493.6500, ext. 19 or can be made online at www.crossingvineyards.com.

As for what’s going on elsewhere, both this weekend and beyond, take a look (event is this weekend unless otherwise indicated):

PENNSYLVANIA WINERIES

Adams County Winery, Orrtanna: Wine appreciation class ($$), Saturday, 6 to 8:30 p.m.; home wine-making ($$), Sunday, Feb. 22, 1 to 3 p.m., link to winery

Blue Mountain Vineyards & Cellars, New Tripoli: Sunday Blues Wine Tastings, music every Sunday ($$), 2 to 5 p.m., through April, except for Feb. 1, link to winery

Chaddsford Winery, Chaddsford: Taste of the Brandywine benefit at Hilton Garden Inn ($$), Friday, 6 to 10 p.m., members of the wine trail will showcase its newest releases along with hors d’oeuvres provided by the Hilton; Eric Miller wine and food pairing dinner at The Kitchen Shoppe in Carlisle ($$), Friday, 6 to 9 p.m.; Wine and Chocolate Reserve Tastings ($$), every weekend in February; Barrels on the Brandywine ($$), every weekend in March at any of the members of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail, link to winery

Clover Hill, Breinigsville: Wine and Chocolate Weekend, Feb. 14-15, members of the Berks County Wine Trail; beginner tasting class ($$), Saturday, Feb. 21, 3 p.m., annual wine rack sale ($$), all Clover Hill location, Feb. 19 through March 8, link to winery

Country Creek Winery, Telford: Wine and Chocolate Tasting, Friday, Feb. 6, 6 p.m., Harleysville Books, 672 Main St., reservations requested, link to winery

Crossing Vineyards & Winery, Washington Crossing: Wine Tasting in Riedel Crystal ($$), Sunday, 2 p.m.; Wine & Wellness, East, Drink and Be Healthy ($$), Wednesday, Feb. 4, 7:30 p.m.; Wine Tasting for Dummies ($$), Sunday, Feb. 8, 2 p.m.; Champagne for Lovers ($$), Thursday, Feb. 12, 7:30 p.m., link to winery

Galen Glen Winery, Andreas: Half-case sale of Cellar White for case club members, 6 bottles for $42; St. Valentine’s Day Weekend, Saturday, Feb. 14, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Sunday, Feb. 15m noon to 5 p.m., link to winery

Hauser Estate Winery, Biglerville: New winery open, Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.; Candle Light Friday/Happy Hour, the last Friday of every month, 5 to 8 p.m., Voxology will perform Jan. 30; satellite shop opened at 17 Lincoln Square, Gettysburg; Valentine’s Day at Hauser Estate, Saturday, Feb. 14, 5 to 8 p.m., warm food and live music, link to winery

Kreutz Creek Vineyards, West Grove: Music at West Chester tasting room, 44 E. Gay St., Fridays and Saturdays, 6 to 9 p.m.; Valentine’s Day Celebration, Feb. 14-15; Barrels on the Brandywine ($$), every weekend in March at any of the members of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail, link to winery

Moon Dancer Vineyards & Winery, Wrightsville: Music every Saturday (2 to 5 p.m.) and Sunday (2 to 5 p.m.); will close Fridays at 5 p.m. at least through February; vineyard hike and mulled wine ($$), Saturday, Feb. 21, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., link to winery

Naylor Wine Cellars, Stewartstown: Lovers Weekend Dinner White Wine Tasting ($$), Saturday, Feb. 14, 3 to 6 p.m., and Sunday, Feb. 15, 2 to 5 p.m., link to winery

Paradocx Vineyard, Landenberg: Valentine’s Day at the Vineyard, Saturday, Feb. 14; Barrels on the Brandywine ($$), every weekend in March at any of the members of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail, link to winery

Penns Woods Winery, Eddystone: Barrels on the Brandywine ($$), every weekend in March at any of the members of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail, link to winery

Pinnacle Ridge Winery, Kutztown: The Buy Fresh Buy Local Wine dinner ($$), at John J. Jeffries, Sunday, with Chardonnay, Chambourcin, Pinot Noir, and Late Harvest Vidal accompanying the four courses, $52 including tax and gratuity, sign up at www.johnjjeffries.com or call 717.431.3307; Chocolate & Wine Weekend, weekend of Feb. 14-15, Berks County Wine Trail event, link to winery

Rose Bank Winery, Newtown: Winter Wine Concert Series, Sundays through March 8, 1 to 4 p.m., at Shady Brook Farm, link to winery

Rushland Ridge, Rushland: Closed January and February; will reopen March 5, link to winery

Tamanend Winery, Lancaster: New winery open, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, noon to 5 p.m., classically styled premium wines in their bottled wine group, and premium sweeter styled wines in their Bag in Box group of wines, link to winery

Twin Brook Winery, Gap: Souper Saturday/Sunday ($$), soups & stew in fresh bread bowls available for sale, paired with a glass of wine; tickets on sale for Valentine’s Concert in the Vineyard ($$), Saturday Feb. 14; Wine, Cheese & Chocolate Weekend, Saturday, Feb. 14, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday, Feb. 15, noon to 5 p.m.; Barrels on the Brandywine ($$), every weekend in March at any of the members of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail, link to winery

Va La Vineyards, Avondale: New holiday hours starting Dec. 1, weekdays, 12:01 to 5:27 p.m., Saturday and Sundays, 12:02 to 5:48 p.m., http://www.valavineyards.com/

Vynecrest Vineyards & Winery, Breinigsville: 8th annual Super Bowl Saturday party, Jan. 31, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; January white sale; Valentine’s Day weekend, Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., link to winery


MARYLAND WINERIES

Black Ankle Winery, Mt. Airy: Open for business, winner of Maryland Governor’s Cup in 2008; winter hours start Dec. 1, Saturday and Sunday, noon to 5 p.m., other times by appointment, link to winery

Boordy Vineyards, Hydes: Chili Winter Days ($$), this weekend and Jan. 31, 1 to 5 p.m.; Fond of You Fondue ($$), Saturdays in February, 1 to 5 p.m., winery link

Fridays Creek Winery, Owings: Wine & Chocolate Tasting United Way Fund-raiser ($$), Saturday, link to winery

Linganore Winecellars at Berrywine Plantations, Mt. Airy: Wine and desserts pairing ($$), through the month; Jazzin’ in January ($$), Saturday, noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m., http://www.linganorewines.com

Woodhall Wine Cellars, Parkton: Soups of the World ($$), every weekend in January,
all are served with bread from Stone Mill Bakery and Woodhall wine pairing recommendations, reservations are requested at 410.357.8644, link to winery

Other MARYLAND winery events can be found at this link, VIRGINIA events at this link and New York events at this link

$$ – Admission charge

Self-taught Knapp now a teacher for others

I keep playing phone tag with the folks from the Pennsylvania Wine Society, so let me use some written comments from state-wide wine grape educator Mark Chien to describe a bit of what he saw at the society's excellent award last Sunday in Harrisburg. What could be called the wine Oscars (hey, that description no more timely than today with the nominations being released), 10 wines were recognized during a program at the Harrisburg Hilton where Chien served as guest speaker.

Of the 10, four were produced by Brad Knapp of Pinnacle Ridge, which has a Kutztown mailing address but could be considered out in the middle of nowhere except for the fact that I-78 happens to be located adjacent to the vineyards and winery. It's no more than a minute's drive from the Krumsville exit.

Chien said in a phone conversation we had yesterday that Knapp and his winery have set themselves apart, and he didn't quibble with my suggestion that no wines in the state carries more value overall than his line right now. Here's what Chien wrote in a newsletter that came out Tuesday:

The results of the PA Farm Show and PA Wine Society wine competitions are in and there is one winery that has excelled in both, Pinnacle Ridge Vineyards in Kutztown. To me, it is no surprise. Owner and wine grower Brad Knapp is as meticulous a grower as you can find anywhere. He farms his vineyard on a south slope visible from I-78 and also maintains a textbook grower-winery relationship with Round Ridge Vineyards. Brad sends me during the harvest with cluster number and weight information as he monitors the crop until moments before harvest. His vines are well-maintained during the growing season with good canopy balance and fruit zone treatments. He is very fussy about the quality of his viticulture. Chambourcin, for example, is thinned to one cluster per shoot on VSP and yields wines of vinifera-like quality and character. Like many winegrowers Brad is self taught but he exemplifies the unique characteristics that can take a vineyard and its wines to the next level... an insatiable curiosity and desire to learn - he's always asking why and seeking knowledge that will provide answers, a keen sense of observation and ability to collect data and translate them into management practices, a willingness to bring in outside experts for advice and help, a great passion for wine growing and finally the ability to execute in the vineyard and cellar. I would encourage fellow wine growers to taste Brad's wines, they are setting benchmarks for quality for Pennsylvania. In the interest of full disclosure, most of the wines that made the final round in the PWS tasting, including those from Pinnacle Ridge, contained fruit grown by Jan and Kim Waltz in Manheim. Their reputation for high quality grapes is well known and the results here simply help to acknowledge their tremendous efforts in the vineyard.

Wine, pizza pairing on Galen Glen schedule

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Galen Glen Vineyard & Winery in Andreas currently is offering a sale on its Cellar White to its case club members, whose who purchase at least one case formt he winery. They're selling six bottles of the semi-dry white, which took a bronze at the 2008 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, for $42.

Also on tap is a St. Valentine's Day Weekend that will feature a pairing of truffles and raspberry wine. Their home-made truffles use Oreo cookies, cream cheese and chocolate. The following weekend, Feb. 21-22, will be a toast to Presidents Day and the new president. They will pair their red wine with pizza, Chicago style. On both weekends the winery, a member of the Lehigh Valley Wine Trail, will be open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. on Sunday.