Limoncello, grappa add some spirit to diverse wine list at Fiore Winery

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Some glimpses of the Fiori landscape: clockwise from top, the bottles of grappa for sale at $25/bottle, one of Fiore's stills, and the dining room in the process of being set up for a reception.

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Paid a visit to Fiore Winery and Distillery in Pylesville, Md., on Sunday. It's one of the oldest in the region, dating back to an opening in 1986. It's around 10 miles from the Pennsylvania-Maryland line, easy accessible via several back-woods scenic roads from York and Lancaster to the north and Baltimore to the south. Probably about 20 minutes, give or take a couple, off the Shrewsbury exit of I-83.

My only disappointment was not getting to meet Mike Fiore, the owner/winemaker and someone I've talked to several times on the phone.

Tastings are $2 per person for a flight of six wines, and a vast majority of them were opened. There were a few exceptions: the Prosecco wasn't; neither was the Caronte, a special blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that's made only in years where the winemaker feels he's had an optimal season. 2007 was as good a season as it gets, and that's the vintage he's selling now for $25.99/bottle, one I brought home and will rest in the cellar for the next 5 to 10 years. Fiore began making and selling limoncello this year, that distinctive chilled Italian liquor that's magic on the tummy after a multi-course meal. He's charging $3 for a taste, partly to bring in some income to purchase a new still. I attached a photo of one of his old stills that sits in the corner of a building that also houses several of his holding tanks on another part of the property.

Fiore -- a member of the Piedmont Wine Trail -- sells more than 25 dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet and sparkling wines in addition to the limoncello and grappa, a far more potent Italian "digestive" elixir.

It grows all of the grapes for its red wines on the property, in addition to Chardonnay grapes that you can see from the driveway that leads to the tasting room. The 2007 vintage of those grapes made an award-winning batch of juice that was recognized as a gold-medal winner and best of class for white wine at the recently announced 2009 Governor's Cup competition.

That black-topped roadway that leads into the winery off Maryland Route 136 was a busy entrance during the middle part of Sunday afternoon, as the third wedding of the weekend at the winery was just wrapping up and heading into Fiore's dining area for the reception.

Lots to see, taste and smell at Logan's View

The Logan's View tasting room is loated at the far end of the farm market. It's a warm, cozy setting back there, away from the bustle in the store. At some point I'm guessing they'll put a table and a few chairs under the hanging light.

Any time of the year is worth a trip to Brown's Orchards & Farm Market in Loganville, Pa., but there's no better time than fall. Pumpkins galore. A full shelf of bagged candy corn. Every possible color you can want in a mum. And apples, loads of em, in the store and in the back, where you can get a great deal on seconds.

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Wasn't sure what to expect from the wines, but they were good. Priced right, in the $15 range. And you have to think that once they bottle their reds next year, that with 22 or more selections of dry and sweet reds and whites plus fruit wine that it will become a one-stop shopping for a lot of folks who pop in there anyway for the fabulous salads, fruits and baked goods.

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It cost $3 for a tasting of five wines. The only twist is that the mix of wines changes each week. Most wineries you can pay for a flight and get whatever you want. Here, you taste the five assigned wines that are offered on a rotation. Yesterday we sampled Traminette, Vidal Blanc, both with 2 percent residual sugar, and a wine called Scheurebe (6 percent residual alcohol) that's made out of a German grape, a cross between the Riesling and Silvaner. Lots of florals and aromas out of the Traminette; the other two provided more sensation on the tongue than the nose. Our server, by the way, was well-versed on the wines and what to pair them with, always a value when you get into a tasting setting.

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We also tried two fruit wines I've never had before: cherry and blueberry. Both were clean, lovely to look at. Not my cup of tea, so to speak, although that cherry was delicioous on top of a couple of chocolates I popped into my mouth, and I wouldn't mind pouring that blueberry wine on a bowl of premium vanilla ice cream. The orchard cherry and strawberry are selling for $12 for a .375 liter bottle, the blueberry for $14 and the wild cherry for $18.
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I'll have to revisit, which we normally do anyway, during a week when some of the drier whites -- Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewurztraminer -- are being poured. Along with selling wine made out of the Scheurebe grape, they also produce another one unique to this area, at least from what I've seen, called Kerner. Logan View's wine list refers to this German grape as a cross of the red grape Trollinger and the white grape Riesling, terming it as one with a "unique flavor and lingering finish" that will bring you back for more. It's residual sugar content is 2 percent.

Italian wine, harvest dinner, scheduled two days apart at Crossing Vineyards and Winery

Agostino Turturro, who will teach Italian Wine for Beginners on Oct. 21.


Still have the remainder of my interview with Crossing Vineyards and Winery's Chris Carroll to post, as well as one with Hauser Estate winemaker Michelle Oakes, who was so gracious with her time a bit earlier this week.

But at this hour I'm taking a short cut and posting info on two events at Crossing Vineyards and Winery in Washington Crossing. My thanks to Rebecca Freeman for the releases.

Wednesday, Oct. 21

Italian Wine for Beginners, Overview of Italy’s wine region, varietals, producers and vintages by Italian-born wine aficionado Agostino Turturro; Oct. 21, 7 p.m., Crossing Vineyards and Winery, 1853 Wrightstown Road, Washington Crossing, Pa. Cost: $35, includes wine sampling and learning materials. Information and registration: 215-493-6500, ext.19, or www.crossingvineyards.com.

Saturday, Oct. 23

Harvest Winemaker’s Dinner, Vintner and co-owner of Crossing Vineyards and Winery will discuss the challenges of a rainy growing season and how to produce award-winning wines during a 5-course gourmet meal with wine pairings; 7:30 p.m., Oct. 23, Crossing Vineyards and Winery, 1853 Wrightstown Road, Washington Crossing, Pa. Cost: $89 plus tax and gratuity; seating limited. Entrée substitutions may be arranged in advance. Information and reservations: 215-493-6500, ext.19 or www.crossingvineyards.com.

Grapes coming in, wines going out at Pinnacle

Passing along a couple of notes off the Pinnacle Ridge Winery's October newsletter. Like Eric Miller at Chaddsford and Carl Helrich at Allegro, among others, owner and winemaker Brad Knapp is as much about sharing what he does and why as producing the wine for consumption. Have mentioned before that the winery is a must-stop, right off the Krumsville exit of I-78 about 30 minutes or so west of Allentown.

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The final portion of the newsletter deals with the harvest. Have a read:

"It is early in the morning. There is a pleasant and comforting stillness in the air. One hears the faint murmur of voices; conversations held through the vines. There is the constant click, click, click sound of shears cutting clusters followed by the plopping sound of one grape luster after another falling into containers. Hand harvesting is hard work, but also satisfying. Sometimes, when harvesting an exceptionally gorgeous cluster, one has to pause for a moment to admire, holding the cluster in one's hand.

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The days can be glorious. Mornings are damp but by mid-morning the dew is gone and the sun warms the pickers. The view in the vineyard is 360 degrees of beauty. The leaves are starting to turn color. Friendships develop among the pickers. Some have known each other for years. It is a great time to connect again.
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The 2009 season has put growers and winemakers to task. The relationship between grape growers and wine makers has never been more important. In other years, fruit has been cleaner. Easier to pick. At our Estate Vineyard and at Round Ridge Farm the goal is the same. Pick the best fruit. Cut out any problems. Make great wines out of a difficult growing season. It makes this writer proud to get up early and head out in to the field with my co-pickers. Aching back, tired arms, and all.

It's a busy month at Pinnacle Ridge, a member of two wines trails. It will be open noon to 5 p.m. tomorrow and Sunday for the Berks County Wine Trail's Artisan Cheese and Wine Pairing, then 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Saturday, Oct. 17, and noon to 5 p.m. on the 18th for the Lehigh Valley Wine Trail's Chambourcin Weekend. The newsletter also contained info on two new releases this month, a Chambourcin Reserve and a red blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon called Veritas. Here's the skinny on those.

We started making a CHAMBOURCIN RESERVE with the 2004 vintage, making this our fourth edition of the wine. The Reserve version of Chambourcin is sourced from either our Estate Vineyard or our vineyards at Round Ridge Farms in Kempton . We evaluate the fruit in the field to determine what we believe will result in the most intense wine. This usually is defined by low yields and a good canopy on the vine towards the end of October.

Another defining feature of our Chambourcin Reserve is the barrel-aging program is carried out in Hungarian Oak Barrels. 2007 was a FABULOUS VINTAGE and has resulted in an intense 2007 Chambourcin Reserve. The color is an intense ruby while aromas of sandalwood, vanilla, and blackberries jump from the glass. On the palate our reserve is medium bodied, with soft tannins and acid. The flavors follow the nose with black fruits and wood influences being dominate. This is a beautifully balance red wine that will reward aging for several to eight years.

The 2007 represents our seventh release of the VERITAS. We consider VERITAS to be on of our FINEST WINES and we only will produce it in the best vintages. This vintage is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the traditional blend of grapes in the making of fine Bordeaux. The wine was grown primarily at Round Ridge Farms in Kempton. Our Veritas was aged for 16 months in Pennsylvania Oak barrels. The color is a medium ruby with aromas of cassis, tobacco, forest floor, and vanilla. The mouth displays soft tannins and flavors that follow the nose. This is the wine for roasts and rich, savory dishes. Our customers are welcome to come to our winery to sample and purchase these two beautiful dry reds. Our release date for our CHAMBOURCIN RESERVE is October 17th 2009 (Chambourcin Weekend). Our release date for VERITAS is October 24th 2009.

The Chambourcin Reserve, according to the Web site, will sell for $16, with the Veritas going for 20 bucks.

Crossing into the subject of Viognier

The Association of Maryland Wineries has a page on its site called GrapeView, where various grapes grown around the state are identified and then put in the context of what they're like to grow and the type of juice they produce. This month's is Viognier, a wine you'll find on a sizeable number of wine lists throughout both states.

It seemed ironic to see Viognier [pronounced VEE-own-YAY] highlighted yesterday on the heels of a Wednesday conversation with marketing and PR director Chris Carroll of Crossing Vineyards & Winery in Washington Crossing, Pa., which will be blowing out six candles on its cake during a birthday party the weekend of Oct. 17-18. In the midst of talking about the wines they make, she said the one that has had the most surprising success has been their Viognier.

While their Merlot and Cabernet Franc have been recognized recently in competition, a conversation that I'll detail more in a future post, Carroll refered to their 2007 Viognier as "a sleeper."

"It wasn't as good initially as it turned out to be," she said by phone. "It was a little hot-tasting to me in the beginning and it settled down nicely. A very elegant wine. And, it's funny, because we're overlooking it and [statewide wine educator] Mark Chien came to our tasting room one day unannounced, which we always love him and welcome him, and he was tasting the wines, and he said 'You know, this Viognier is really good.' He said, 'You're charging 17 bucks. That's a real good value for that wine."

High praise from someone who knows his wines and isn't afraid to speak his mind, good or bad. Carroll said those comments affirmed their desire to nurture this grape and maintain it as part of their growing line.

"We were very pleased at [Mark's comments] because Viognier is a wine we're committed to making," she said. "and it's not an easy sale. Because many people in Pennsylvania do not know the varietal. They know Chardonnay and they know Sauvignon Blanc, and if they're not familiar with it, they often don't like it because it's tastes different from Chardonnary. And it's something you have to understand and know what to expect."

As for some background on the grape, here's the description that appears on the Maryland wines Web site:

It is with great patience and determination, Maryland vineyards have taken on the difficult task of cultivating the Viognier grape. Its name coming from a Latin phrase meaning “road to hell,” the Viognier is neither eager nor willing to be harvested to create wine. Taking on this task displays the passion and dedication of Maryland winemakers and grape growers.

“Growing grapes just because they are easy to grow would make Maryland wines extremely one dimensional and uninteresting,” states Mark Cascia, the owner of Cascia Vineyards in Stevensville.

The Viognier, a white grape, is thought to have been brought to the Rhone Valley in France by the Romans in the third century. It is extremely rare, making up only a small fraction of grapes grown in the world and was nearly extinct by the mid 20th century after two World Wars and the relentless onslaught of insects and disease.

By the end of the 20th century, however, the Viognier was planted in both North and South America and southern Australia. The growing season of this particular grape is longer than most, leaving a very small window to be harvested. If picked too early the rich taste cannot fully develop and if picked too late the grape becomes oily.

The strength and resilience of this grape is evident in its bold taste. Mark Emon, the owner of St. Michael’s Winery describes the Viognier as “complex and rich,” perfect for blending with other wines such as Syrah/Shiraz, which is done in Cote Rotie of France. Emon says that this wine is enjoyed by red wine drinkers, who usually prefer a heavier, fuller taste. St. Michael’s goes as far to list the Viognier on their “Red Lovers” list.

This wine is described by most as having a taste and aroma of citrus fruits. Viognier differs from other white wines because it contains an array of volatile aromatics, which give it its complex taste. It is paired well with seafood and chicken as well as spicy dishes such as Thai and Vietnamese cuisine.

Though frustrating to growers, the final result of the Viognier is worth the trouble and long wait. This unique, versatile wine stands alone, unlike its family of white wines. It is this unwavering perseverance that sets Maryland Wine makers apart; there is no task too difficult or tedious when it comes to making a great wine.

Berks County trail's eight wineries serving up cheeses and wine as part of weekend festival

Gotten away from those long weekly list of wine-related activities, but still want to steer you toward specific events that you might want to consider as a weekend destination. One this coming Saturday and Sunday will be the Berks County Wine Trail's Artisian Cheese and Wine Weekend. Tickets are $10 in advance and $15 at the door.

That trail includes eight wineries, with four running north to south along a western flank from north of I-78 to around Rt. 422, and then east to Blair Vineyards near Rt. 100 in Mertztown and south to Kog Hill Winery in Morgantown.

You can click on the wine trail Web site and then on each winery's link to see what they're planning for food and events in addition to having wine available for tasting. But you can start right here with three wineries that I want to mention:

Blair Vineyards in Mertztown is offering two cheese from Hendricks Farm and Dairy in Telford. One is an aged Gouda that will pair with a 2005 Merlot, and the other is their Keystone Classic that will match with Blair's 2005 Chardonnay.

Breakaway Farms of Manheim will cart its organic cheeses and meats into Clover Hill Vineyards' Robesonia location, open noon to 5 p.m. both days.

Finally, Manatawny Creek Winery in Douglassville will offer cheeses from three local producers: a fresh goat cheese from Woodchoppertown Chevre will be paired with its Riesling wine; a cheddar cheese from Wholesome Dairy Farms will be paired with its Cabernet Sauvignon, and Fat Cat cheese from Birchrun Hills Farm will be paired with its Chardonnay.

Asian pears will be available to sample at all the wineries.

Best part of the Berks County trail, at least at last check, is the absence of a tasting fee to sample their wines. That won't last forever, but it makes this trail unique among all the others in the region.

Four Maryland winery owners, and how they got started, profiled in magazine story

Two quick notes out of Maryland before I head out the door to class.

The newest e-letter of the Association of Maryland Wineries links to a story that Baltimore Magazine recently published on four wineries in the state -- Black Ankle, Boordy, Sugarloaf Mountain and St. Michaels -- and how they got started. A good read with an ample mix of background and quotes. I've dealt with three of the four wineries, and all three have been media savvy and eager for the publicity. I've always appreciated their cooperation. The one I haven't visited as yet is St. Michaels.

Wanted to also call attention to the Eastern Yacht Club's Bayside Blues and Wine Fest, scheduled for noon to 6 p.m. Saturday in Essex, Md. "Seven wineries in the proximity of the yacht club will be pouring. You can find out more by clocking on this link.