Wine Excellence awards provides firsts for Chambourcin and Chaddford

I write about a number of wineries from the region that few people have heard about, either because they've just opened or don't get their product into the state store (in Pennsylvania) or into the hands of many merchants in Maryland.

But that's not meant to downplay the continued great work of some of this region's standbys, one being Chaddsford in southeastern Pennsylvania. Can't think of another regional winery that carries more weight as an innovator and is known in more corners of the world that wine drinkers occupy. And the winery's win Sunday in the annual judging by the Pennsylvania Wine Society serves as a reminder of where winemaker and co-owner Eric Miller has set the bar at a winery that will celebrate its 30th birthday in a couple of years.

Society president Paul Beesom said that there were several precendents this year: no Chambourcin had ever won before and Miller and Chaddsford had never won before. Those streaks are over, off the win of the fabulous 2007 vintage. Those who follow the progress of the local industry will recall that Pinnacle Ridge's 2007 Chambourcin was the Farm Show's top winer in 2009.

It took awhile, Beesom admitted, for Chambourcin to even be allowed into the competition.

"I had mixed feelings and a lot of us had mixed feelings of whether to include Chambourcin," he said. "But the feeling was that it was so close to a vinifera species that it could almost be one and also that it was the one area that this state and this area could make its mark with. And it does very well here. So we agreed to include it."

The Society has been around since 1987, but has only been judging PA wines for its Wine Excellence competition for eight years. Wineries are invited to submit their wines to the organization, which narrows the entries to a more workable number. This year, according to the Pennsylvania Winery Association Web site, there were 11, including two each from Allegro, Manatawny Creek and NW Pennsylvania's Presque Isle.

And more and more, Beesom said, it has become a pleasureable experience. "They're getting better," he said of the state's wines and the ones in particular that wind up in the competition. "Better every year, and I say that after each event. I can honestly say that of the 11 wines that we [judged], every one of them could be on a fine-dining restraurant list."

That wasn't the case early, he added. There were two or three good ones, the rest a "little shaky. But they're just getting better. I think the winemakers are learning more as they go along on how to do things right in this area."

If you want to check out some comments on Chaddsford wine, here's a link to the Web site where Lee Miller has assembled a collection of praise from magazines and bloggers alike. These include insight from some of the folks I follow regularly, including Delawareonline.com's Roger Morris (who also blogs under the heading of Been There Tasted That) and theother46.com's Brian Kirby.

Morris: Feedback to winery reviews are rare

Anyone familiar with the wineries of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail has read the sentiments of Roger Morris, who has been writing about wines for a number of publications for years and who manages a blog called Been There Tasted That.

I had a lengthy conversation with Moris the other day, most of which I plan to post later. But I was curious what kind of reaction he got from wineries when he was even a bit critical. A review of Dove Valley Winery in Rising Sun, Md., that he wrote for the Wilmington (Del.) News Journal pointed out that the year-old winery needed to improve its wine if it hoped to compete with those around it. Unfortunately, those stories only stay online for seven days before the news operation charges for them, so I can't link to it. Nonetheless, Morris did admit he felt compelled to include that in his review.

"Usually most of the things that somebody has said, it's usually a matter of interpretation," he said Thursday by phone. "I don't get much feedback at all. First of all, unlike film criticism, which I did when I was very, very young, I don't have to review everything. So I think that most wine people out there, unless they’re slaves to wine ratings, they’re more interested in me saying 'Hey, here’s something that’s interesting you might want to think about, or here’s something that you may want to try or here's someplace you may want to go.' I thought that when I did Dove Valley though that I thought while I was writing about it that I had to sort of let my readers know what I thought they were going to get. Just basically nice, simple wines that pretty much taste the same from one to the other."