While Obama began working, Sugarloaf rested

After writing several entries about the big to-do at Maryland's Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyards, I sent an e-mail down to Jim McKenna this morning to ask how things went. One of the partners who also has been a good friend to this blog, McKenna quickly responded on how the four-day tasting room dedication and inauguration bash went at the winery, located at the border of Montgomery and Frederick counties. McKenna wrote the following:

"The weekend was a smashing success, especially on Sat and Tues, when we had a singer and an engraver for the bottles, glasses and/or just about anything else made of glass. She, Jennie, has become a real favorite and the concept of engraving the wine bottles as gifts has caught on. We had some snow on Monday and football on Sunday which tended to keep attendance down, although not nearly so much as we had feared. Tuesday (not a holiday everywhere) started fairly quickly before the inauguration speech, went quite quiet while the speech was on (we suspended all business while the new President was talking) and then hit a lull for a couple of hours. At about 3:30 or so, people started to pile in.

"My personal theory is that the people of America, after mulling over the speech and the activities for a few hours, became revitalized and then joy started to gallop back into our collective psyche, causing, at least for Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, an upsurge in hope (a familiar word these days) and a willingness to breath a collective sigh of relief. We sure had a joyous last couple of hours at our place, and people sure were willing to use the credit card weapon again. Many thanx for your continued interest in SMV."

March the month for hitting the trails

Received my tickets in the mail yesterday for the 2009 Tour de Tanks, which begins Feb. 28 and runs weekends through the end of March. That's the event that really opened my eyes to how many wineries had opened in the area. This is a chance, for a comparatively low passport ticket of $15, to spend time at all 12 wineries that make up Tour de Tanks, stretching from Lancaster County across York County and into Adams County, in addition to Cullari Vineyards & Winery in Hershey and West Hanover Winery outside Harrisburg. You can stop in, get your ticket stamped, sample the wines that are out, and generally nosh on a wide variety of foods. And, believe me, everyone has their own idea of what to pair with the wines. The times are noon to 5 p.m. on Saturdays and 1 to 5 p.m. on Sundays. Tickets, which can be purchased online and at participating wineries, will get you 10 percent off any wine purchases and a chance to win prizes once the event ends.

Tour de Tanks is unusual in that its the one time each year these wineries all do something together as the Uncork York wine trail; they're not officially part of the same trail although it does make you wonder why they don't get together and plan other events. A few of the wineries are members of a Mason-Dixon trail with wineries in Maryland, but that relationship lost much of its vigor in the past couple of years.

Meanwhile, other trails do their own version of Tour de Tanks. The six members of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail, located in Philly's western burbs, will hold their successful Barrels on the Brandywine every weekend day in March. Tickets are $25 per person. Same with the nine members of the Lehigh Valley Wine Trail, in and around Allentown-Bethlehem-Easton, which charges $30 apiece for its March Madness passport program.

No matter where you go, you won't find a cheaper way to get acquainted with the wines of the region.

We interrupt this local programming ...

This IS a blog on regional wineries, after all, so I try to steer away from other wines in other parts of the country or world. But I do make exceptions for the right story. Deb Harkness, whoose daily smatterings of info, wisdom and wit make Good Wine Under $20 one of my favorite blogs on wine, posted yesterday on a Romanian wine made with Fetească Neagră grapes. As Deb is wont to do, she dived into some resource books and provided some history on the country, its wine making, and those particular grapes, and then added her comments on the wine itself. A good read, one worth sharing.

You can also find her writing about wine and food at seriouseats.com.

Morris: More wineries coming on board

He doesn’t grow grapes, at least not to my knowledge, but wine writer and blogger Roger Morris plays as significant a part in the complexity of this region as a wine producer as anyone bottling the juice from the grapes.

His reviews are posted on several Web sites, and he’s credited with pairing the wines and foods for the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail’s vintners’ dinner that I attended at Longwood Gardens last November. A former writer for the Washington Star, he is in the middle of a long return stint with the Wilmington (Del.) News-Journal, and he occasionally contributes to a blog he created named Been There Tasted That.

Morris said by phone late last week that, from everything he has heard, business at wineries around him remained pretty stable last year in the midst of all the economic obstacles. And while interest in local wines continues to expand, he said the quality keeps increasing.

“As you know, Va La just decided to drop out of [Brandywine Valley] the wine trail so it can concentrate on making high-end wines,” he said. “Obviously at $55 a bottle that they sell, and Penns Woods sells theirs at a pretty high price. Eric Miller [of Chaddsford Winery] routinely has wines in the 30s and 40s [dollar range], so I think that’s working.”

Asked whether they’ve reached a level where they’re worth that much, Morris said it’s not his choice to make that assertion.

“If someone likes it well enough to pay for it, then it’s worth it,” he said. “But from everything that I can see, they are, and I think that without a doubt that [Va La’s] Mahogany is one of the best if not the best red wine that I’ve tasted on the East Coast. The other thing that’s interesting too is that the new wineries continue to have their plans to come onstream. I know that there are some people . . . I know there’s one winemaker for other reasons decided not to move ahead with a new winery, but he already has a winery, just didn’t want to break ground. But the people at the old Folly Hill Winery [Galer Estates], they re going full speed ahead. There’s a new fellow named Mario Patone, who is opening up Patone Cellars in West Grove. He’s been a very large homemaker for a long time and bought grapes this fall and is going to try to have his tasting room open this coming fall. And there’s two wineries opened in Cecil County [Md.] as you know, the past year and half. So, so far, I don’t see any main change in anything. The main thing I’ve heard at Va La that hurts them [is] when the Eagles are playing on Sundays.

“One of the things that Patone did tell me that I thought was interesting to me that may apply to what you’re doing is that he hasn’t decided whether he’s going to do any more than a showcase vineyard where he’s got the property. He’s thinking about even going out around Lancaster where the land is cheaper and whereas as you know there are some people up there who grow grapes. Sp that’s what he’s thinking about, so I guess that the land even in a recession is still fairly higher here to buy for a vineyards.”

Morris said Patone will be one new member expected to essentially replace Va La on the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail. “Since he just joined the wine trail he’s not going to be on their March agenda, when they do the Barrels on the Brandywine . . . I didn’t ask him this, but I was thinking just because of trying to catch the fall events he’s going to try and sell his first wines then.”

Morris: Feedback to winery reviews are rare

Anyone familiar with the wineries of the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail has read the sentiments of Roger Morris, who has been writing about wines for a number of publications for years and who manages a blog called Been There Tasted That.

I had a lengthy conversation with Moris the other day, most of which I plan to post later. But I was curious what kind of reaction he got from wineries when he was even a bit critical. A review of Dove Valley Winery in Rising Sun, Md., that he wrote for the Wilmington (Del.) News Journal pointed out that the year-old winery needed to improve its wine if it hoped to compete with those around it. Unfortunately, those stories only stay online for seven days before the news operation charges for them, so I can't link to it. Nonetheless, Morris did admit he felt compelled to include that in his review.

"Usually most of the things that somebody has said, it's usually a matter of interpretation," he said Thursday by phone. "I don't get much feedback at all. First of all, unlike film criticism, which I did when I was very, very young, I don't have to review everything. So I think that most wine people out there, unless they’re slaves to wine ratings, they’re more interested in me saying 'Hey, here’s something that’s interesting you might want to think about, or here’s something that you may want to try or here's someplace you may want to go.' I thought that when I did Dove Valley though that I thought while I was writing about it that I had to sort of let my readers know what I thought they were going to get. Just basically nice, simple wines that pretty much taste the same from one to the other."

N.Y. farmers' markets brave the cold

Dropping this note on New York farmers' markets, from the weekly e-letter of the state of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation and director Jim Trezise.

FARMERS’ MARKETS throughout New York State are a great way to “buy local” and get great food and wine, even in the winter. A couple decades ago, Bob Lewis (now with the Department of Agriculture & Markets in Brooklyn) and Barry Benepe started the ball rolling by creating the Union Square Greenmarket, which transformed a dangerous, drug-riddled neighborhood into a bustling market where regional farmers sell directly to New York consumers. For well over a decade, Anthony Road Wine Company’s John Martini has appeared there every Saturday where, he says, “the money’s good, and the show is great”, and he often outsells the winery’s tasting room back in the Finger Lakes. This fall, a Pride of New York Winestand, now sponsored by the New York Wine & Grape Foundation and run by Wine & Food Associates, has allowed many other wineries the chance to showcase their wines each Friday; and the program has now expanded to Brooklyn’s Grand Army Plaza on Saturdays. Agriculture & Markets Commissioner Patrick Hooker is encouraging New Yorkers all over the state to patronize the local markets, numbering more than 50 during the winter months, with some having moved indoors but others braving the elements. For a listing of New York farmers' markets, including a link to just the winer ones that are open, click here.

Event Grapevine: Jan. 16-18

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Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard in Dickerson, Md., will be combining a grand opening of the tasting room and a celebration of the presidential inauguration event. The party will run from Saturday through next Tuesday, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and will include wine tastings and tours of the winery, sales on selected wines, hot soup, cheese platters, hors d'oeuvres, bottle engraving and entertainment. To top it off, you can view the inauguration of President Barack Obama on the big screen on Tuesday.

Winery partner Jim McKenna pulled along the side of the road yesterday to tell me by phone how excited he and the rest of the Sugarloaf family are to officially open the tasting room, which opened for business in October. "The tasting room has turned out to be even more pleasant and terrific than I could have imagined in my wildest dreams," he said. "There's something very lovely and warm about it. Peoiple who come in just love it. And I do, too. We have XM Radio and generally I either have classical music on or the [Frank] Sinatra station [that's on XM]."

McKenna said work would commence today on putting up a big tent over the patio in addition to the 40 or 50 people that the tasting room will be able to accommodate. And there's more room in the winery itself and elsewhere on the property to handle what's expected to be a busy, busy few days.

Otherwise, here’s what’s happening this weekend and beyond.

PENNSYLVANIA WINERIES

Adams County Winery, Orrtanna: Wine appreciation class ($$), Saturday, Jan. 24, 6 to 8:30 p.m.; home wine-making ($$), Sunday, Feb. 22, 1 to 3 p.m., link to winery

Blue Mountain Vineyards & Cellars, New Tripoli: Music every Saturday ($$), 6 to 9 p.m., link to winery

Chaddsford Winery, Chaddsford: Academy Awards of Pennsylvania Wines ($$), Harrisburg Hilton, Sunday, 2:55 p.m., tickets through the Wine Society of Pennsylvania; Taste of the Brandywine benefit at Hilton Garden Inn ($$), Friday, Jan. 23, 6 to 10 p.m., members of the wine trail will showcase its newest releases along with hors d’oeuvres provided by the Hilton; Eric Miller wine and food pairing dinner at The Kitchen Shoppe in Carlisle ($$), Friday, Jan. 23, 6 to 9 p.m.; Wine and Chocolate Reserve Tastings ($$), every weekend in February, link to winery

Clover Hill Vineyards & Winery, Breinigsville: Snowy 6 Pack Sale, 20 percent off purchases of any six bottles of wine, through Sunday; beginning wine-tasting class ($$), Saturday, 3 to 4:30 p.m., SOLD OUT, link to winery

Country Creek Winery, Telford: Resolution Revolution, Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.; Wine and Chocolate Tasting, Friday, Feb. 6, 6 p.m., Harleysville Books, 672 Main St., reservations requested, link to winery

Crossing Vineyards & Winery, Washington Crossing: Wine Tasting for Singles ($$), Friday, 7 p.m.; Insider’s Guide to Vintage 2008 ($$), five-course gourmet meal, Saturday, 7:30 p.m.; Wine Tasting for Dummies ($$), Sunday, 2 p.m.; wine and cheese pairing, ($$), Tuesday, Jan. 20, 7:30 p.m.; Wine Tasting in Riedel Crystal ($$), Sunday, Jan. 25, 2 p.m.; Wine & Wellness, East, Drink and Be Healthy ($$), Wednesday, Feb. 4, 7:30 p.m., link to winery

Hauser Estate Winery, Biglerville: New winery open, Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.; Candle Light Friday/Happy Hour, the last Friday of every month, 5 to 8 p.m.; satellite shop opened at 17 Lincoln Square, Gettysburg, link to winery

Kreutz Creek Vineyards, West Grove: Music at West Chester tasting room, 44 E. Gay St., Fridays and Saturdays, 6 to 9 p.m.; Valentine’s Day Celebration, Feb. 14-15, link to winery

Manatawny Creek Winery, Douglasville: Weekend celebration, Friday through Monday, Sunday, noon to 6 p.m., otherwise 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Winter Warmth on sale for 10 percent off (try dipping ginger snaps into the spiced red warm wine). Fire will be blazing, link to winery

Moon Dancer Vineyards & Winery, Wrightsville: Music every Saturday (2 to 5 p.m.) and Sunday (2 to 5 p.m.); will close Fridays at 5 p.m. at least through February; vineyard hike and mulled wine ($$), Saturday, Feb. 21, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., link to winery

Naylor Wine Cellars, Stewartstown: Lovers Weekend Dinner White Wine Tasting ($$), Saturday, Feb. 14, 3 to 6 p.m., and Sunday, Feb. 15, 2 to 5 p.m., link to winery

Paradocx Vineyard, Landenberg: Valentine’s Day at the Vineyard, Saturday, Feb. 14,
link to winery

Pinnacle Ridge Winery, Kutztown: The Buy Fresh Buy Local Wine dinner ($$), at John J. Jeffries on Sunday, Jan. 25, with Chardonnay, Chambourcin, Pinot Noir, and Late Harvest Vidal accompanying the four courses, $52 including tax and gratuity, sign up at www.johnjjeffries.com or call 717.431.3307; Chocolate & Wine Weekend, weekend of Feb. 14-15, Berks County Wine Trail event, link to winery

Rushland Ridge, Rushland: Closed January and February; will reopen March 5, link to winery

Tamanend Winery, Lancaster: New winery open, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, noon to 5 p.m., classically styled premium wines in their bottled wine group, and premium sweeter styled wines in their Bag in Box group of wines, link to winery

Twin Brook Winery, Gap: Souper Saturday/Sunday ($$), Jan. 24-25, soups & stew in fresh bread bowls available for sale, paired with a glass of wine; tickets on sale for Valentine’s Concert in the Vineyard ($$), Saturday Feb. 14; Wine, Cheese & Chocolate Weekend, Saturday, Feb. 14, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday, Feb. 15, noon to 5 p.m., link to winery

Va La Vineyards, Avondale: New holiday hours starting Dec. 1, weekdays, 12:01 to 5:27 p.m., Saturday and Sundays, 12:02 to 5:48 p.m., http://www.valavineyards.com/

MARYLAND WINERIES

Black Ankle Winery, Mt. Airy: Open for business, winner of Maryland Governor’s Cup in 2008; winter hours start Dec. 1, Saturday and Sunday, noon to 5 p.m., other times by appointment, link to winery

Boordy Vineyards, Hydes: Chili Winter Days ($$), this weekend, next weekend, and Jan. 31, 1 to 5 p.m.; Fond of You Fondue ($$), Saturdays in February, 1 to 5 p.m., winery link

Frederick Cellars, Frederick: Frederick Gives Back, fund-raiser for county Humane Society, Saturday; Inaugural celebration, stop by to toast the new president, Saturday and Sunday, music at 7 p.m. Saturday and meet the new winemaker from 3 to 5 p.m. on Sunday, link to winery

Fridays Creek Winery, Owings: Wine & Chocolate Tasting United Way Fund-raiser ($$), Saturday, Jan. 24, link to winery

Linganore Winecellars at Berrywine Plantations, Mt. Airy: Wine and desserts pairing ($$), through the month; Jazzin’ in January ($$), Saturday, Jan. 24, noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m., http://www.linganorewines.com

Woodhall Wine Cellars, Parkton: Soups of the World ($$), every weekend in January, this weekend is soups of France (Vichyssoise, Butternut Squash Soup, Bouillabaise),
all are served with bread from Stone Mill Bakery and Woodhall wine pairing recommendations, reservations are requested at 410.357.8644, link to winery

Other MARYLAND winery events can be found at this link, VIRGINIA events at this link and New York events at this link

$$ – Admission charge