Md. wine critic finds a reason to smile

The intent of this site, at least early on, is not to post reviews on various wineries or their wines, particularly locally. There are enough qualified folks doing that. I know what I like and certainly will say so when asked, but the value of this site will be the dialogue it prompts and the folks you get to meet through it.

But that doesn't prohibit me from posting other opinions as long as they are comfortable with having them on a public site. I'd say Doug Marcus of Towson (Md.) Wines & Spirits is very confident in how he feels, and that includes his opinions on Maryland wines. Those opinions were as strong as a bottle of California Zin, pretty much repeated in the June newsletter and e-mail from Doug and wife Marsha. Here's what the e-mail from Towson Wine & Spirits said in regard to Black Ankle Winery of Mt. Airy, Md., which we featured more than a week ago:

"Hooray!!!!!!!

"Here it is. New wine, new winery and ... get this... it's in Maryland and I'm excited!!!

"Finally, a Maryland Winery that is committed to quality wines and actually delivers.

"Other Maryland wineries are involved in the wine making process but Black Ankle Winery in Mt. Airy is committed to the process and the product.

"(So there is no confusion: In a breakfast of ham and eggs, the chicken is involved but the pig is committed!!)

"I have always been a cheerleader for Maryland wines and nearly always disappointed. I am happy to announce that Black Ankle is as serious about wine as I am.

"Please review the wines herein and order, order,order !

"The wines are wonderful but the quantities are limited.

Also, visit their website and visit their winery as soon as it opens to the public in a few weeks."

Enjoy!

Doug & Marsha Marcus
Towson Wines & Spirits

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Hey, you can't blame the guy for pushing a wine he's now selling (and it's not the only Maryland wine he sells at his cozy store not far from Towson Town Center). But it was the enthusiasm that permeated not only the e-mail but also the intro to the newsletter that caused me to want to post all this. The chatter that led into the reviews of the various Black Ankle wines in the newsletter went as follows:


"Let the word go out from this time and place that a new winery has been established… born of commitment, tempered by dedication and intent on proving that there are drinkable wines can be produced in Maryland. I am thrilled to announce that Black Ankle Winery of Mount Airy has arrived! The newest of the Maryland wineries, Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce have committed to the finest of wines produced anywhere!

"Unlike most other local wineries that grew from hobbies or insist on making sweet stuff that can barely be called wine, Sarah and Ed have created a fully equipped, professionally developed entirely self sufficient winery that grows its own grapes and makes its own wines. Even to the uninitiated, their effort is evident in their acres and acres of vines, the modern and fully equipped wine making facility and their nearly complete visitor’s center.

"When you visit, think California not Maryland and you’ll understand my appreciation for what they have created. And the wines, oh yes, the wines - these are well made and wonderful – tasting notes follow on all ten of their first born. I am dedicating this entire newsletter to Black Ankle wines, no recipes, no beer and no other wines as I feel their boost to the Maryland wine industry is seismic! All of the wines herein are available now by preorder and very soon (July) on the shelf. Please note the limited case count for each wine and order now!"

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If you want to receive the newsletter or purchase those wines (or others), you can reach Doug or Marsha by calling 410.823.2674 or sending an e-mail to towsonwine@comcast.net.

I asked Doug why he's so vocal on the subject and he responded by e-mail within a couple of hours. If nothing else it's a viable discussion point as we move forward because it's obvious from my conversations with various winery proprietors and wineries that they wrestle with this very subject: sweet vs. dry and how to find the right balance. Sweet often keeps the cash register busy because of the tastes of this region, even if it's not what the winemaker or proprietor particularly like to make.

Marcus wrote in his note to me:

"When Ed and Sarah were starting their project, virtually every MD winery told them - sweet, sweet, sweet. Marylanders only drink sweet wine. My response, after tasting every MD wine, is that sugar covers up a lot of sins.

"(Sounds like nuns discussing how disgusting sex is because they can't have it.)

"Some MD wines are OK, I have an affection for Bert and Lynn Basignani's efforts but I do not believe in movies and brass bands to sell wine.

"My opinions are strong because I believe in the effort and the results. If you cannot make good wine and don't even try - just go home. I sell more wine than anyone in town because I am particular, have a nice average palate and don't really care if I sell wine or not. You never, ever have to take a bottle of wine off of my shelves and ask me if it is any good. It's either good or it doesn't get purchased. We taste as many as 100 a week and approve very few - we neither take prisoners nor play favorites. MD wine doesn't have to be crappy - it just is because it's easier to sell soda pop to the masses for money than good wine to the discerning few. Understand that palates naturally develop and if you cultivate you customers, get them to try other wines ( and stand behind every purchase), their palates expand and so does your business. Coke and Pepsi are not gateway drinks to ginger ale. MD wineries don't get it and never will."

Strong stuff, and a subject we'll continue to explore in the coming months.

Cheers, Paul