Saturday, October 4, 2008

From the '46' to 26 acres of paradise

Among the images are Terry's wife Jennifer, a couple of views from the winery, and Terry and Jennifer strolling through their vineyard.
Been delaying the post of this story on former Eagle-turned-wine-entrepreneur Terry Hoage until it first ran in the Philly Daily News. He’s part of a series of Where They Are Nows that is focusing on former defensive standouts for the NFL franchise.

Hoage and his wife Jennifer run
Terry Hoage Vineyards out of Paso Robles, Calif., a Central Coast community that is increasingly luring the marketing folk’s from the state’s Liquor Control Board. His slight build as a player was deceptive; few players in the history of the franchise put more into giving a wide receiver or running back a licking than Hoage, who was among the team’s leading tacklers in 1986 and ’87 for Buddy Ryan and his famous “46” defense.

His vineyards spread out over 17 of the farm’s 26 acres, and Terry and his wife pretty much do it all: from the work in the vineyards to the label design to getting the word out on their eight wines. They produce between 2,000 and 3,000 cases a year, all of the names of the wines having some connection to his playing days. “The Hedge” refers to his time in college at the University of Georgia, “Skins” to his days with a Washington Redskins franchise that won the Super Bowl, and “46,” a Grenache-Syrah blend that recognizes what Hoage calls “one of the most complicated, dominant defenses I’ve ever played in.” Several you can find stores in Pennsylvania state stores. But not “46.” “I was kind of bummed that Pennsylvania didn’t pick up the ‘46,’” he said by phone. “I thought it would be a nice fit.”

What has turned out to be a nice fit is where they’ve wound up, Hoage said, coming out of his career in the NFL.

“We’ve very, very lucky that we landed unbeknownst to us when we came into a really wonderful wine region with a fantastic climate to produce really great wines of a different types of grapes. There’s a lot of Bordeaux grown here that does very well. It was originally known for Zinfandel. The Rhones were planted in the region , I’m guessing, for the first time in the ’80s maybe, in small plantings. Those have done well. We even have a couple of Pinot producers in the area, some of which do a nice job. So we kinda run the gamut with grape varietals. There’s Tempranillo, there’s all kinds of different varieties that do well here.”

Hoage called it probably the “fastest-growing region and getting the most acclaim. [Wine critic] Robert Parker kind of made the announcement a couple of years ago that this was the next biggest best wine region in the world and people have kinda started to jump on board with that. It’s nice to be in an area that even though it has been producing grapes for a long, long time and people never knew about it. Quality grapes have been coming out of this region for years. It’s kinda nice to be here doing this when there’s kind of a wave of recognition coming over the entire appellation.”

That, Hoage noted, is creating a bit of a dilemma for what has been always cultivated a laid-back personality. It’s not Napa -- and all the problems that brings – yet. “You know agri-tourism is definitely growing,” he said. “We’re not like Napa . . . our area is not to that point yet. We certainly we get a lot of tourism because of the wine industry. There’s a battle here in our county between pro growth and no growth and really kind of controlling the tourism, try to keep it sane. It’s really kind of the double-edged sword.. You want to invite people to certainly share in the experience that is the Central Coast, but in doing that not disrupt what makes this area quaint. I live on a dirt road. I’m a half mile from town but I live on a dirt road. I have wildlife all around me. I’ve got sweeping vistas and views from my property and I have a small tasting room. It’s just all kind of quaint and very agrarian, and if you were to pave everything and put in a bunch of stoplights, it kind of changes the atmosphere. So we’re trying to find a balance here. But, yeah, tourism is a very important aspect of making this a viable business. People enjoy coming to my winery, tasting my wines on-site, looking at the views and seeing the vineyard. It is a very pastoral setting.”

He talked some about his memories in Philly: the 1988 playoff game vs. the Bears that’s better known as the Fog Bowl; playing on one of the NFL’s best-ever defenses; looking up, he said, to see everyone in the stands watching a fight in the corner of the stadium and ignoring the game for the moment.

He’s has been back since; once, five years ago, his son came to Philly as a member of a wheelchair basketball team that was based in Los Angeles. The national tournament that year was being held at Saint Joseph’s. Hoage said he arranged a tour for the boys through the Eagles’ NovaCare Center – “which was really nice, it wasn’t quite like the dungeons of the Vet” -- and Lincoln Financial Field. Then they headed down to get a steak in South Philly.

“I was a little worried about taking these, probably 12 kids, in wheelchairs. These guys in the cheesesteak places are a little impatient sometimes. ‘Whaddya want, whaddya want?’ These [kids] had never even had cheesesteaks. But it was amazing. We pulled the vans up and we’re trying to unload these kids and people just started coming out and helping and stopping traffic. Lined them all up there and they all got their cheesesteaks and they all had a great time . . . It wasn’t necessarily the experience that I got everytime I was down there. But people went out of their way to make sure these guys have a good time.”

Wine Week to school you on regional labels

I wrote a month or so ago about the dream of two wine writers to bring recognition to wines and wineries outside the West Coast. That dream is about to be realized, as the site Drink Local Wine has been developed and activated. Regional Wine Week is officially under way.

Beginning this weekend and continuing through next week, around 30 writers will introduce you to wines you’ve probably never heard about. What all will have in common is that these wines are produced in the back yards of these writers and that none are made in what’s accepted as American wine country: California, Oregon and Washington.

Ome of the cofounders of tis project, Dave McIntyre, writes out of the Washington D.C./northern Virginia area. It’s his feeling that “local wines - broadly defined as any wines not from the West Coast - are getting better. This is especially true in New York and Virginia, but increasingly so in Maryland, Pennsylvania, and unheralded spots such as North Carolina's Yadkin Valley and the mountains of northern Georgia. The Ohio River Valley produces Pinot Blanc of surprising finesse, and Michigan's Old Mission and Leelanau peninsulas are increasingly known for their spritely Riesling and perfumed Gew├╝rztraminer.”

All that said, his partner Jeff Siegel – a Texas wine columnist and blogger – insists that regional wines continue to get overshadowed by that monster that’s known as the West Coast. Not that they don’t deserve their due, but …

“It’s time,” he writes, “that regional wine got the respect it deserved. Yes some of its still tastes like it was made from grapes strained through sweaty socks, but much of its is as competently made as anything from California. I regularly do blind tastings with regional wine; the people who drink it think the stuff they’re drinking is from California or Australia.”

Wines from 16 states plus California will be featured, and there’s every reason to think this will be a successful harbinger of bigger things to come. I’ll be featuring a winery and two of its wines every day, from each of the major wine trails that fan out from Gettysburg east to Philly and north to the Lehigh Valley. And it will be fun to read how others handle their “beat” and what they unearth.

Enjoy. It should provide an eye-opening education.

Crossing Vineyards to celebrate fifth birthday

Once in awhile I'll let the public relations folks do their job. So I'll just post this release from Rebecca Feldman about an anniverary at Crossing Vineyards & Winery next week. This will be a winery featured during Regional Wine Week, which begins Monday. More on that to come.
Crossing Vineyards and Winery in Washington Crossing, Pa. has a lot to celebrate when it marks its fifth birthday Oct. 11 and 12 with an open house, live music and a chance to win a private wine tasting for eight and a VIP tour.

The celebration, which will be held from 1 to 6 p.m. (live music 1-5 p.m.), both days at the winery, 1853 Wrightstown Road, will cap five years of achievement and growth for Crossing, which opened two new ventures this summer and, in the past year, expanded its summer concert series, added 18 medals to its trophy case, was listed in an international wine guide, featured in US Airways Magazine, and installed a solar energy system.

In June, Crossing opened a second retail location at the Marketplace at East Falls in Philadelphia and the following month launched “Crossing Vineyards Wine and Cheese Shop,” one of only six retail outlets selected for “Project Sunrise,” a $208 million, 300,000 square-foot gaming and entertainment complex at Pocono Downs in Wilkes-Barre, Pa.

Also this summer, the winery expanded its “Summer Under the Stars” outdoor concert series to 13 performances, adding newcomers like Opera New Jersey to old favorites which brought jazz, pop, classical music and Irish dance to the 200-year-old estate.

Awards in national and international wine competitions this past year brought Crossing’s five-year total to 68, including “Best of Class – Top Gold” in the 2006 Starwine International Wine Competition for its ’05 chardonnay. The reputation of Crossing’s award-winning wines and its setting on 20 acres situated less than a mile from where Washington crossed the Delaware, earned the winery a spot on The Style Network’s popular destination wedding series “Married Away” and in US Airways Magazine’s September edition as a “must see” attraction in Bucks County. Tom Stevenson's 2008 Annual Wine Report, a well-respected international guide to the wines of the world, ranked Crossing Vineyards and Winery number five on its top 10 list of new, up and coming East Coast producers.

The decision of winery owners Tom and Christine Carroll and their son, Tom Jr. to “Go Green” marked another milestone in Crossing’s brief history. Wanting to protect the environment by reducing fossil fuel consumption, the family installed phase one of a state-of-the-art solar energy system and hopes eventually to use solar power to
supply 100 percent of the vineyard’s energy needs.

Crossing continues to expand the offerings of its “Wine Institute,” which presents educational programs and workshops. In conjunction with a new series on “French Wine for Beginners,” the Carrolls in May hosted a private tour of The Rh├┤ne Valley and Provence. This fall, Philadelphia wine writer and blogger Collin Flatt joins the Wine Institute faculty, which includes Crossing’s French sommelier Eric Cavatore, and Marika Vida Arnold, sommelier at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Philadelphia.

For additional information about Crossing’s birthday celebration or its programs, visit or call 215.493.6500, ext. 19.