Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Fall Tour: Twin Brook Winery


Stopped by Twin Brook Winery in Gap, Pa., this morning and found winemaker Jason Price bottling blush. They also are pushing to get a couple more dry reds bottled over the next week in order to restock their shelves, as sales this fall have significantly lowered that part of their inventory.

Stopped by Twin Brook Winery in Gap, Pa., this morning and found winemaker Jason Price bottling blush. They also are pushing to get a couple more dry reds bottled over the next week in order to restock their shelves, as sales this fall have significantly lowered that part of their inventory. Bottles of their Consiglieri, their off-dry Chianti-style red, and their medium-bodied 2006 Cab Franc could be found upstairs on the shelf along with a number of dry whites and sweeter wines.

Had a chance to sample a couple of the wines out of the tank: the 2008 Chardonnay and Pinot and 2006 Cabernet. Winemaker Tim Jobe called the Chard the best he has picked off the vine since '05, and I could understand why he said that after one long whiff and taste. It will be put into cold stabilization as early as Friday and could be bottled and put on the shelf before the new year. The Pinot was far more subtle; he said both are clearing up quickly. He also was excited about the Cab, and a look, sniff and taste of that dry red explained why he's eager to share it with his customers. Loved the color, loved the taste. They could be bottling that Cab as early as next week, and then it's a matter of waiting for the wine to recover from the beating it takes getting bottled before it's put up on the shelf. As Price said later in an e-mail, "We will have to be as patient as possible until it shows itself again. Hopefully, not too long."

Jobe said they spent a good part of the year fighting diseases, and survived a rather rainy late part of the spring and early summer, but have come away from harvest convinced this will prove to be an excellent crop and vintage. He’s expecting a busy week and anticipates a busy December, although he said this time of the year the requests for tasting decrease dramatically. People are more intent on coming in, buying what they want, and heading out rather than choosing to linger and taste, he said.

Editor's note: I did open the Cab Franc, one of my favorites reds, on Wednesday afternoon. It is a wine most wine drinkers probably aren’t familiar with, and one that can be found at some but not all of the regional wineries. At Twin Brook, it’s one of their higher price point wines, at $18. As one who’s always looking for a bargain, I generally eschew much above $15, but felt like I got my money’s worth with this one. You’ll generally find Cab Franc as a partner in the bottle, often with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, its offspring, rather than alone. It’s a grape that’s predominant in Bordeaux, one also found across the globe in countries such as Italy, New Zealand, Argentina and Chile. In the United States, the grape has found a home in this area’s cooler climes, up into the Finger Lakes in New York, down across the Piedmont in Virginia, and in small areas of Michigan and Washington.

For those who can get overwhelmed or put off by the darker and heavier reds with their higher tannins, this is a varietal worth at least tasting if you get out to any of the regional wineries that make it "straight up."

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