Another one to Cross(ing) off the list

Clockwise from top: one of several tasting bars in the winery, dessert awaits a knife; and a shot of the tasting room/winery from the walkway that leads in from the parking lot.

Finally made it to Crossing Vineyards & Winery on Sunday, where a steady stream of visitors were heading up the steps and across the landscaped path to the cozy tasting room during the hour and a half we were there. It's a striking juxtoposition, the parking lot and tasting room and new warehouse sitting there, vineyards stretching as far as you can see to one side with a housing development pressing in from the other. All in all, a gorgeous setting amid the changing leaves in rural Bucks County, about 7 miles south of New Hope.

Folks were heading in for a dummies class that started around 2. Others were there tasting at one of two tables set up back in the winery itself. It was the winery's sixth birthday party, so a four-piece band was playing in one spot and a sheet cake was awaiting a few candles and a knife in another spot. Crossing Vineyard & Winery's standard tasting is 12 wines for $8, an assortment of whites and reds and what they call their original series. The one out of the latter that was opened on Sunday was Wild Berry, a delectable blend that would work well as a summer sipper and quite well on, say, a scoop or two of ice cream. Got a chance to sample their recent award winners in the Sommelier Challenge held in San Diego: the 2007 Merlot, its grapes are imported from Waltz Vineyards over in Manheim, Pa., by the way; their 2007 Cabernet Franc, really what amounts to their signature wine; and their '07 Viognier. All excellent choices among many that we sampled.

Price range, by the way, is $12 for the blush and $13 for a few of the other fruit and berry wines, into the low $20 for their award-winning reds, topping off at 28 bucks for the Pinot Noir Reserve and Cabernet Franc Reserve.

Crossing celebrating birthday, awards

There's a party atmosphere at Crossing Vineyards in Washington Crossing, Pa., these days, and only part of its has to do with this weekend's sixth anniversary party. The Bucks County winery, founded by the Carroll family, will lure a who's who of local and state government officials and folks from the wine industry for a ribbon-cutting on a new energy-efficient warehouse. Meanwhile, there will be tastings, live music and a chance to enter a drawing for tickets to a Nov. 14 wine and food pairing sit-down as the birthday party runs today and tomorrow from noon to 6 p.m.

Actually, the toasting began a few weeks ago when word came back on the results from the Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition that took place in San Diego on the last weekend in September. Of all the wines entered, 49 made it to the final round of voting for best of show in five broad categories -- sparkling, red, white, rose and fortified. All wines put forward by the judges for the best-of-show vote were elevated from gold to platinum. And when the final assessment was made, Crossing Vineyards' Merlot 2006 earned a platinum medal, Cabernet Franc 2006 scored a gold and the Viognier 2007 took a silver. That's half of the total number that Crossing entered.

Christine Carroll, who directs PR and marketing for the winery, said there was a particular appeal to entering that competition. "It was sommeliers from the country's top restaurants," she said. "And we thought, this would be fun. This is not really a wine judge, per se, but this is someone who's on the front line, selling wine, knowing what people are liking, and they're not with their head in the clouds so much. So we thought, this might be good, and this might be a real taste test of where we stand because it's not an academic who's cutting us slack but it's the guy who's selling it who's judging it."

Crossing's Cab Franc has won the lion's share of awards since the winery opened in 2003, so the gold medal simply added another trinket to the winery's trophy case. But the showings of the Merlot ("a sleeper") and Viognier ("a very elegant wine") did catch them a bit by surprise.
A nice pleasant surprise. "The platinum means that it won a gold medal and that any wine that was being considered for best of show was granted a platinum medal," Carroll said. "There were five best of show medals . . . so we would have been running with [California's] Cakebread [Cellars] for the best red in this competition."

I haven't tasted the wines yet, but hoping to tomorrow. Still, what I have seen is their list of events, from workshops and seminars to wine and food pairings to other events done in conjunction with the Bucks County Wine Trail. Carroll said there's a reason that Crossing ranks among the top two or three in the region, along with Chaddsford, in activities. "Here's the reason we do it," she said. "And it's not always about Pennsylvania wines. We're doing a new class this fall called Italian Wines. That is because people hold the Pennsylvania thing against us, they don't know what they're talking about, they've never tasted Pennsylvania wines. So they'll say, 'I don't like Pennsylvania wine.' Oh, well, whose wine have your tried? 'Well, I've never really tried it, but i don't like it.' Or 'I like California Cabernet.' Well, that's good, that's a start. Have you ever tried a Cabernet from Pennsylvania? 'Oh, no, I don't like a Cabernet from Pennsylvania.' Would you try. 'No, no, no, I don't need to try it because I already know what I like.' So this is what we're faced with. So I think with more . . . I think it's like when a person goes to college, her mind opens up. Educaton opens people's minds. And it's the same with wine as it is with anyone else. So we're trying to get people off the defensive. We're trying to get them on to the open-minded. And we'll always throw one of our wines in and we'll identify it. We're not sneaky. We don't even do a blind tasting. We'll say, 'Here's a Crossing Vineyards Viognier' if we're doing Rhone varietals. Try it. Tell us what you think about it in comparison.

"It's pretty ballsy, I'll give you that. But, again, we're a young winery and we want to get better. And if they hate us, we're going to get better next year, because we're going to figure it out next year."

Crossing into the subject of Viognier

The Association of Maryland Wineries has a page on its site called GrapeView, where various grapes grown around the state are identified and then put in the context of what they're like to grow and the type of juice they produce. This month's is Viognier, a wine you'll find on a sizeable number of wine lists throughout both states.

It seemed ironic to see Viognier [pronounced VEE-own-YAY] highlighted yesterday on the heels of a Wednesday conversation with marketing and PR director Chris Carroll of Crossing Vineyards & Winery in Washington Crossing, Pa., which will be blowing out six candles on its cake during a birthday party the weekend of Oct. 17-18. In the midst of talking about the wines they make, she said the one that has had the most surprising success has been their Viognier.

While their Merlot and Cabernet Franc have been recognized recently in competition, a conversation that I'll detail more in a future post, Carroll refered to their 2007 Viognier as "a sleeper."

"It wasn't as good initially as it turned out to be," she said by phone. "It was a little hot-tasting to me in the beginning and it settled down nicely. A very elegant wine. And, it's funny, because we're overlooking it and [statewide wine educator] Mark Chien came to our tasting room one day unannounced, which we always love him and welcome him, and he was tasting the wines, and he said 'You know, this Viognier is really good.' He said, 'You're charging 17 bucks. That's a real good value for that wine."

High praise from someone who knows his wines and isn't afraid to speak his mind, good or bad. Carroll said those comments affirmed their desire to nurture this grape and maintain it as part of their growing line.

"We were very pleased at [Mark's comments] because Viognier is a wine we're committed to making," she said. "and it's not an easy sale. Because many people in Pennsylvania do not know the varietal. They know Chardonnay and they know Sauvignon Blanc, and if they're not familiar with it, they often don't like it because it's tastes different from Chardonnary. And it's something you have to understand and know what to expect."

As for some background on the grape, here's the description that appears on the Maryland wines Web site:

It is with great patience and determination, Maryland vineyards have taken on the difficult task of cultivating the Viognier grape. Its name coming from a Latin phrase meaning “road to hell,” the Viognier is neither eager nor willing to be harvested to create wine. Taking on this task displays the passion and dedication of Maryland winemakers and grape growers.

“Growing grapes just because they are easy to grow would make Maryland wines extremely one dimensional and uninteresting,” states Mark Cascia, the owner of Cascia Vineyards in Stevensville.

The Viognier, a white grape, is thought to have been brought to the Rhone Valley in France by the Romans in the third century. It is extremely rare, making up only a small fraction of grapes grown in the world and was nearly extinct by the mid 20th century after two World Wars and the relentless onslaught of insects and disease.

By the end of the 20th century, however, the Viognier was planted in both North and South America and southern Australia. The growing season of this particular grape is longer than most, leaving a very small window to be harvested. If picked too early the rich taste cannot fully develop and if picked too late the grape becomes oily.

The strength and resilience of this grape is evident in its bold taste. Mark Emon, the owner of St. Michael’s Winery describes the Viognier as “complex and rich,” perfect for blending with other wines such as Syrah/Shiraz, which is done in Cote Rotie of France. Emon says that this wine is enjoyed by red wine drinkers, who usually prefer a heavier, fuller taste. St. Michael’s goes as far to list the Viognier on their “Red Lovers” list.

This wine is described by most as having a taste and aroma of citrus fruits. Viognier differs from other white wines because it contains an array of volatile aromatics, which give it its complex taste. It is paired well with seafood and chicken as well as spicy dishes such as Thai and Vietnamese cuisine.

Though frustrating to growers, the final result of the Viognier is worth the trouble and long wait. This unique, versatile wine stands alone, unlike its family of white wines. It is this unwavering perseverance that sets Maryland Wine makers apart; there is no task too difficult or tedious when it comes to making a great wine.